Indian Royalty, Maharajas and more........

John Lang - Rani of Jhani’s Lawyer

2011-03-06T22:19:00.000+05:30

“Main Meri Jhansi Nahi Doongi” - the most famous words of India’s greatest patriots, Rani Lakshmibai of Jhansi when informed of the annexation of her kingdom. They have been immortalized in popular Indian lexicon and replayed in movies and plays through the centuries. We all have a mental picture of the Queen with her eyes burning red in anger tearing down her purdah in view of the fully durbar. Expressing her rage and anguish at the unjust decision of the British East India company unlawfully taking what belonged to her. We can’t but help emphasize with her , with her loss. While we as an audience in this historical drama may applaud the brave Rani and her words,what else do we know of this episode? Where did Rani utter these words and why? How did rest of the world get to know her famous words?

I think it is important for anyone to know the contexts in which there historic incidents are framed. I investigated extensively as to who was present when this incident occurred and what actually happened. My discovery was startling and interesting. It brings out a biography of a very interesting man, who can only be described as a true friend of India and Indians.

John Long, Australia’s first native novelist and a lawyer to Rani Lakshmibai of Jhansi was one of the most extraordinary gentlemen of his age. In the high age of imperialism and colonialism, he was one of the few white men who stood up for the rights of the “natives”. John Lang was a friend and admirer of India and Indians at a time where “native Indians” were considered to be barbaric and had to be civilized. He lived and travelled extensively in India interacting with Indians. He earned the wrath of the ruling British class for his championing of the Indian cause. As a mofussil lawyer, he helped protect the interests of his Indian clients against their haughty British rulers. It was due to his position as an honest lawyer that he was approached by Jhansi durbar to fight the adoption case of the Rani.

It was during his trip to Jhansi, in his meeting with Rani Lakshmibai, that she uttered the famous phrase “Mai Meri Jhansi Nahi Doongi”. I will not reveal more. Do read ahead to hear about first hand account of his trip to Jhansi in John Lang’s own words (which also is one of the best first hand accounts of how the Rani actually looked like):

A trip to Jhansi and meeting the Rani:

This is an excerpt from the book “Wanderings in India” , published in 1861, which has the first had account of John Lang’s trip to Jhansi and his interactions with Rani Lakshmibai. This is perhaps the only such account written in English, through extremely interesting and revealing. Read on! -

“About a month after the order had gone forth for the annexation of the little province of Jhansi (in 1854), and previous to a wing of the 13th Native Infantry occupying the country, I received a letter in Persian, written upon "gold paper" from the Ranee begging me to pay her a visit. The letter was brought to me by two natives of rank. One had been the financial minister of the late Rajah. The other was the head vakeel (attorney) of the Ranee.

I was at Agra when I received the Ranee's letter, and Agra is two days' journey. Even as I travelled from Jhansi, I sympathized with the woman. The boy whom the Rajah had adopted was only six years old, and during his minority, that is to say, until he had attained his eighteenth year, the Ranee - so the Rajah willed - was to have been the Regent, and the boy's guardian; and it is no small matter for a woman - a native woman of rank, too - to give up such a position and become a pensioner, even on Rs 60,000 year. Let me detail the particulars of my journey to the residence of the Ranee of Jhansi. I got into my palanquin at dusk, and on the following morning, at daylight, arrived at Gwalior. The Rajah of Jhansi had a small house about a mile and a half from the cantonment, which was used as a halting-place, and thither I was taken by the minister and the vakeel who accompanied me.

At ten o'clock, after I had breakfasted and smoked my hookah, it was proposed that we "go on at once." The day was very warm, but the Ranee had sent a large and comfortable palanquin carriage; in short, it was more like a small room than a carriage, fitted up as it was with every convenience, including even a punkah, which was pulled from the outside by a servant, who sat upon a foot-board. In the carriage, beside myself and the minister and vakeel, was a khansamah, or butler, who, with the apparatus between his knees, kept on cooling water, and wine, and beer, in order that, whenever I felt thirsty, I might be supplied at a moment's notice. This enormous carriage was drawn by a pair of horses of immense strength and swiftness. Each stood about seventeen hands high. The )ate Rajah had imported them from France at a cost of 1500l. The road was rather rough in many places, but, on the average, we got over it at the rate of about nine miles an hour.

At about two o'clock in the day we entered the Jhansi territory, having changed horses twice, and we had now some nine miles to drive. Hitherto we had been escorted only by four sowars (horsemen), but now our escort amounted to about fifty, each horseman carrying an immense spear, and dressed much in the same way as the Irregular Cavalry in the pay of the East India Company. And along the road, at intervals of a few hundred yards, were horsemen drawn up, and as we passed, they joined the cavalcade; so that by the time we came in sight of the fortress — if those old weak walls, surmounted by some nine pieces of old ordnance of inferior calibre, deserved the name - the whole strength of the Jhansi cavalry was in attendance. The carriage was driven to a place called " the Rajah's garden," where I alighted, and was conducted by the financial minister and the vakeel and other servants of state, to a large tent, which was pitched beneath a clump of gigantic mango trees. The tent, which was that in which the late Rajah used to receive the civil and military officers of the British Government, was elegantly fitted up, and carpeted; and at least a dozen domestic servants were ready to do my bidding.

I must not omit to mention that the companions or my journey - the minister and the vakeel - were both men of good ability and pleasing manners. They were, moreover, men of learning, so that my time upon the road had been beguiled very agreeably. The Ranee had consulted one of the many Brahmins who were supported by her as to the most propitious hour for me to come to the purdah behind which she sat; and the Brahmins had told her that it must be between the setting of the sun and the rising of the moon, which was then near her full; in other words, between half-past five and half-past six o'clock.

This important matter having been communicated to me, I expressed myself perfectly satisfied with the time of the appointment, and ordered dinner accordingly. This done, the financial minister, after betraying some embarrassment, intimated that he wished to speak to me on a rather delicate subject, and that, with my permission, he would order all the menial servants in attendance on me, including my own sirdar-bearer (valet), to leave the tent and stand at a distance. I complied, of course, and presently found myself alone with only the "officials" (eight or nine in number) of the little native state of Jhansi. What the finance minister wished to ask me was this - Would I consent to leave my shoes at the door when I entered the Ranee's apartment? I inquired if the Governor-General's agent did so. He replied that the Governor-General's agent had never had an interview with the Ranee; and that the late Rajah had never received any European gentleman in the private apartments of the palace, but in a room set apart for the purpose, or in the tent in which we were conversing. I was in some difficulty, and scarcely knew what to say, for I had a few years previously declined to be presented to the King of Delhi, who insisted on Europeans taking off their shoes when they entered his presence.

The idea was repugnant to my mind and I said as much to the minister of the late Rajah of Jhansi; and I asked him whether he would attend a levee at the palace of the Queen of England, if informed that he must enter her Majesty's presence with his head uncovered, as did all her subjects, from the lowest to the highest. To this question he would not give me a direct answer, but remarked, "You may wear your hat, Sahib; the Ranee will not mind that. On the contrary, she will regard it as an additional mark of respect towards her." Now this was what I did not want. My desire was that she should consider the wearing of my hat, supposing I consented to take off my shoes, as a species of compromise on her part as well as on my part. But I was so amused with this bargaining, as it were, that I consented; giving them distinctly to understand, however, that it was to be considered not as a compliment to her rank and dignity, but to her sex, and her sex alone. That great point settled, I partook of a very sumptuous repast that was prepared for me, and awaited patiently the setting of the sun or the rising of the moon, determined, however, that I would wear my hat - a black "wide-awake," covered with a white turban.

The hour came, and the white elephant (an Albino, one of the very few in all India), bearing on his immense back a silver houdah, trimmed with red velvet, brought to the tent. I ascended the steps, which were also covered with red was velvet, and took my place. The mahoot, or elephant-driver, was attired in the most gorgeous manner. The ministers of state, mounted on white Arabs, rode on either side of the elephant; the Jhansi cavalry lining the road to the palace, and thus forming an avenue. The palace was about half a mile distant from my encampment ground.

Ere long we arrived at the gates, at which the attendants on foot began to knock violently; A wicket was opened, and closed hastily. Information was then sent to the Ranee; and, after a delay of about ten minutes, the "hookum" (order) came to open the gates. I entered on the elephant, and alighted in a court-yard. The evening was very warm, and I fancied that I should be suffocated by the crowd of natives (retainers) who flocked around me. Observing my discomfiture, the minister imperiously commanded them to "stand back!" After another brief delay, I was asked to ascend a very narrow stone staircase, and on the landing was met by a native gentleman, who was some relative to the Ranee. He showed me first into one room and then into another. These rooms (six or seven), like all rooms of the kind, were unfurnished, save and except that the floors were carpeted; but from the ceiling punkahs and chandeliers were suspended, and on the walls were native pictures of Hindoo gods and goddesses, with here and there a large mirror. At length I was led to the door of a room, at which the native gentleman knocked. A female voice from within inquired, "Who is there?"

"Sahib," was the reply. After another brief delay, thee door was opened by some unseen hand, and the native gentleman asked me to enter, informing me, at the same time, that he was about to leave me. A brief delay now occurred upon my part. It was with great difficulty that I could bring myself to take off my shoes. At length, however, I accomplished it, and entered the apartment in "stocking feet." In the centre of the room, which was richly carpeted, was an arm-chair of European manufacture, and around it were strewn garlands of flowers (Jhansi is famous for its beautiful and sweet-smelling flowers). At the end of the room was a purdah or curtain, and behind it people were talking. I sat myself down in the arm-chair, and instinctively took off my hat; but recollecting my resolve, I replaced it, and rather firmly - pulling it well down, so as completely to conceal my forehead. It was a foolish resolve, perhaps, on my part, for the hat kept the breeze of the punkah from cooling my temples.

I could hear female voices prevailing upon a child to "go to the Sahib," and could hear the child objecting to do so. Eventually, he was "launched" into the room; and upon my speaking kindly to the child, he approached me - but very timidly. His dress and the jewels on his person satisfied me that the child was the adopted son of the late Rajah, and the rejected heir to the little throne of Jhansi. He was rather a pretty child, but very short for his, years and broad-shouldered - like most of the Mahratta children that I have seen.

Whilst I was speaking to the child, a shrill and discordant voice issued from behind the purdah, and I was informed that the boy was the Maharajah, who had just been despoiled of his rights by the Governor-General of India. I fancied that the voice was that of some very old woman - some slave or enthusiastic retainer, perhaps; but the child having imagined that he was spoken to, replied, "Maharanee!" and thus I was told the error of my conclusion.

And now the Ranee, having invited me to come closer to the purdah, began to pour forth her grievances; and, whenever she paused, the women by whom she was surrounded, set up a sort of chorus - a series of melancholy ejaculations - such as " Woe is me!" " What oppression!" It reminded me somewhat of a scene in a Greek tragedy - comical as was the situation.

I had heard from the vakeel that the Ranee was a very handsome woman, of about six or seven and twenty years of age, and I was very curious indeed to get a glimpse of her; and whether it was by accident, or by design on the Ranee's part, I know not, my curiosity was gratified. The curtain was drawn aside by the little boy, and I had a good view of the lady. It was only for a moment, it is true still I saw her sufficiently to be able to describe her. She was a woman of about the middle size - rather stout, but not too stout. Her face must have been very handsome when she was younger, and even now had many charms - though, according to my idea of beauty, it was too round. The expression also was very good, and very intelligent. The eyes were particularly fine, and the nose very delicately shaped. She was not very fair, though she was far from black. She had no ornaments, strange to say, upon her person, except a pair of gold ear-rings. Her dress was a plain white muslin, so fine in texture, and drawn about her in such a way, and so tightly, that the outline of her figure was plainly discernible - and a remarkably fine figure she had. What spoilt her was her voice, which was something between a whine and a croak. When the purdah was drawn aside, she was, or affected to be, very much annoyed; I but, presently she laughed, and good-humouredly expressed a hope that, a sight of her had not lessened my sympathy with her sufferings nor prejudiced her cause.

"On the contrary," I replied, "if the Governor-General could only be as fortunate as I have been and for even so brief a while, I feel quite sure that he would at once give Jhansi back again to be ruled by its beautiful Queen."

She repaid this compliment, and the next ten minutes were devoted to an interchange of such matters. I told her that the whole world resounded with the praises of her beauty and the greatness of her intellect; and she told me that there was not a corner of the earth in which prayers for my welfare remained unsaid.

We then returned to the point - her "case." I informed her, that the Governor-General had no power to restore the country, and recognise the claim of the adopted son, without a reference to England, and that the most prudent course for her to adopt would be to petition the throne, and meanwhile draw the pension of 6000l. a year, under protest that it was not to prejudice the right of the adopted son.

At first she refused to do this, and rather energetically exclaimed: "Mera Jhansi nahin dengee" (I will not give up my Jhansi).

I then pointed out to her, as delicately as possible, how futile would be any opposition; and told her, what was the truth, that a wing of a native regiment and some artillery were within three marches of the palace; and I further impressed upon her that the slightest opposition to its advance would destroy her every hope, and, in short, jeopardize her liberty. I did this because she gave me to understand - and so did her attorney (and my impression is that they spoke the trutb) - that the people of Jhansi did not wish to be handed over to the East India Company's rule.

It was past two o'clock that night before I left the palace; and ere I took my departure, I had talked the lady into my way of thinking, except that she would not consent to draw any pension from the British Government.

On the following day I returned to Gwalior, en route to Agra. The Ranee presented me with an elephant, a camel, an Arab, a pair of greyhounds of great swiftness, a quantity of silks and stuffs (the production of Jhansi), and a pair of Indian shawls. I accepted these things with great reluctance, but the financial minister entreated me to take them, insomuch as it would wound the Ranee's feelings if I refused. The Ranee also presented me with a portrait of herself, taken by a native, a Hindoo.

The state of Jhansi was not restored to the rule of the Ranee, and we know that she afterwards rivalled that fiend Nana Sahib, whose "grievance" was identical with her own. The Government would not recognise Nana Sahib as the adopted son and heir or the Peishwah; the Ranee of Jhansi sought to be recognised as the Regent during the minority of the late Rajah's adopted son and heir.”

Aftermath:

John Lang was ruthlessly persecuted by British establishment for taking side of Indians in various court cases. He was even sentenced to imprisonment. Incidentally, in 1857, when the revolt broke out, John Lang was in England. Sadly, when he returned to India in 1859, most of his Indian as well as British friends had died in the revolt, including Rani Lakshmibai of Jhansi. John Lang continued to be the editor of the newspaper The Mofussilite. He wrote the book “Wanderings in India” in 1861 describing his various experiences in India including Jhansi. He died in Mussoorie in 1964 and is buried there. However, he will always be remembers for revealing to the world, Rani lakshmibai of Jhansi’s famous words “Main Meri Jhansi Nahi Doongi”

By Akshay Chavan

Taj Mahal's Security , Shah Jahan & Mughal NSG

2010-11-26T19:13:00.004+05:30

An anniversary of 26/11 attacks has passed with same predictable speeches and ceremonies. Politicians shedding fake tears and asking Paksitan "to stop exporting terrorism" (Please, if you don't mind, stop it or I will complain to your Mommy) . Ordinary citizens like me shed tears for people who fell and get on with life. As a lollypop to dangle towards the public, Govt promised to create a special security force called the NSG. The Taj Mahal at Mumbai has become a monument to this tragedy, which even inspired Presidant Obama to visit and give speeches about how "we" were together for fight against terorrism blah blah blah blah........ Politicians today, can take note and comfort from that fact that couple of hundered years ago, even the "Great Moghul" had to worry about the security of Taj and create a special force to protect it. I mean the Taj of Agra. This is a look at Shah Jahan and his riverrine security force. The very own Mughal NSG.

Taj Mahal in Moonlight - A symphony in stone and a target for an anarchist. A security nightmare for the Mughal empire.

Debate and discussion about the security of important buildings today has been going on for so long that it has started to bore people. Anyone who has visited Taj Mahal has run into rude and burly security men guarding Taj Mahal. You will find men with sniffer dogs, metal detectors and all sorts of high tech security stuff all dedicated and determined to make the tourist experience as less pleasurable as possible. Also, you keep reading in newspapers reports of terrorist threats to Taj Mahal.

By the way, despite all this heavy security and crores spent on it, it always surprises me as to how do stray dogs get past into the Taj Complex? Do they have a “setting” with the guard dogs? Do they give them “hafta” of whatever treats they get? Well! That could be topic of research, but not mine. My topic of interest is the special force which Shah Jahan created to protect Taj Mahal. But what was the need for creating such a post? Did he get threat letters from the rebellious afghan tribes or "lashkars" threatening to blow up the Taj Mahal (there were no emails then)? Was there an input from his intelligence bureau of there being a “potential” threat based on some vague intelligence input? I leave that to historians to find this out.

Shah Jahan, the creator of Taj Mahal and its security force. (Did he get "intelligence inputs" about terrorist attack on Taj? Did he receive threat letters from the restive Afghan tribes or "lashkars"?)

What we do know is that through a special firman, an extraordinary post of “Faujdar-i-Nawahi” or Police Officer of the River was created. His mandate was to protect the Taj mahal and the riverfront around it. Under this officer, was a “special security force” which operated on river Yamuna. his force had a strong naval fleet with boats, sailors and soldiers (Thankfully, they seem to be well equiped unlike our NSG commandos). This force controlled and regulated traffic which moved up and down river Yamuna all throughout the year and prevented piratical activities. This force was also responsible for maintaining law and order on both sides of the river. and protected the VVIP residences there. All major nobles and umrahs of the Mughal empire had huge havelis on the Yamuna river and this required extra precaution.

Yamuna river was chocked with heavy traffic of all the boats going upstream and downstream. Mughal riverine security force patrolled and protected this river and VVIP residences located on the waterfront. (so now we know that VVIPs were always well protected throughout history!)

That brings us to the next question, who held the post of the head of this force? I am sure like in India today, there must have been a lot of bureaucratic wrangling; inter departmental politics and greasing of palms for this post. The man who received the appointment was a man called Agah Khan. Not much is known of this man, but he is mentioned frequently by Lahauri, the Court Historian of Shah Jahan in the Badshahnama as well as various Taj manuscripts.

In his narrative of the year A.H 1044/ 1634-35, Lahauri mentions that Agah Khwajsara was given the title of “khan” and a “Faujdari” of the river Yamuna. In year 1644, Lahauri mentioned of promotion of Agah khan. He writes –

“The mansab of Agah khan who was fauzdar police officer of river-banks at Agra was raised from original 1000 zat and 1000 sawar to 1000 zat and 1000 sawar with 800 of them with 2 horse and 3 horse stipend each”.

Lahauri also gives us information about Agah Khan’s background and previous work experience. Apparently, Agah Khan was a trusted officer of Shah Jahan’s harem, hence the title “khwahsara” . He held the charge of the harem and could be moved with easy to any civil or military post. He held this post till his death in 1656 AD.

A photo of Taj Mahal and its enviors taken by John Murray in 1858 clearly show existance of ruins believed to be those of the headquarters of the river security force and the Faujdar's haveli. (But did this building conform to Mughal environment laws? or was there a scam?)

Not surprising, much like the politicians and bureaucrats of today, (some things never change!) he even got himself allotted prime waterfront property right next to Taj Mahal to build his grand haveli. Again, I leave it to historians to find out if there were protests from Mughal environmentalists about allowing construction on riverbank land or then news media carrying out breaking news stories about how the security officer had built his haveli on prime Agra real estate flouting environmental laws. Would they have demanded Emperor’s resignation or a JPC probe or did the haveli have requisite clearances from the Emperor? That apart, the fact remains that Agah Khan built a grand haveli for himself right next to the Taj. This haveli appears in several historical maps as Haveli Agah Khan located right next to the location of Dusshera Ghat in Agra. The ruins can be seen to this day. Apparently, this haveli had a vast landing ghat which would allow the police fleet to dock there. Some ruins are visible in photos taken in 1850s. However, these have dissappeared.

The fact that there was never an attack on Taj during heydays of Mughal rule shows that Shah Jahan's security force worked well. I will hesitate to say the same about our NSG. I am simply keeping my fingers crossed. This concludes our fascinating snippet from Mughal history, about how some things never change with time!

By Akshay Chavan

Samudra Mahal at Worli, Mumbai: A Lost Palace by the Sea

2010-09-05T19:48:00.002+05:30

This is the story of one of the most opulent private residence built in Mumbai. Today, Mukesh Ambani’s Xanadu called “Antilla” towers over the city of Mumbai. It undoubtedly holds the title of being the most lavish Mumbai residence ever built. However, Antilla did have predecessors who shared the title of the most opulent homes in Mumbai. As per my extensive research on this topic, the homes which would qualify as most opulent Mumbai residences would be Petit Hall of Sir Dinshaw Petits, Jay Mahal palace of Gaekwads of Baroda and Samudra Mahal palace of the Scindias of Gwalior. Sadly,due to extremely high cost of real estate and maintenance costs involved, all three of them have been demolished and redeveloped into huge apartment blocks.

The Samudra Mahal palace of the Scindias of Gwalior, one of the most opulent royal residences ever built in Bombay / Mumbai. (© Shivang Vijay Singh of Dumraon)

Recent discovery of some rare photos of Samudra Mahal by Shivang Vijay Singh of Dumraon, eldest great grandson of Rajmata Vijayaraje Scindia has rekindled interest in the story of Samudra Mahal. It is part of Mumbai/Bombay that shall be forever be associated with a mighty kingdom in Central India, that of the Scindias of Gwalior. But why did the Scindias build a palace in Bombay?

In the late 1800s and early 1900s , Indian princes were encouraged to travel outside their states. Bombay (as Mumbai was called then) was a centre of commerce and trade. It was also famous for its racing season. As a result, large number of princes started spending extensive periods of time here. Maharaja Madhavrao Scindia was a financial genius of his time. He invested the financial surplus of the Gwalior state into various industries in Bomaby which gave handsome returns, making Gwalior one of the richest of Gwalior states. His closest advisor was Sir Framroze Eduljee Dinshaw , the financial king of Bombay. Sir FE Dinshaw was extremely busy man and hence could not visit Gwalior to discuss the financial affairs; hence, Maharaja Madhavrao Scindia felt that it would be better to have a suitable residence in Mumbai where he could stay for his extensive visits.

A view of the front part of the palace which faced the Haji Ali dargah. The palace was located on a small hillock with sea on three sides, making it a most desirable property.(© Shivang Vijay Singh of Dumraon)

He purchased 20 acres of land at Worli point from Aga Khan. It was a spectacular location, with a small hillock surrounded by sea on three sides. It extended from Markandeshwar temple (a small Shiv temple) on one end and Haji Ali dargah on the other end. Maharaja commissioned the Gwalior State architect John Ritchie to build a large palace for him. John Ritchie built a spectacular palace on the hillock on the modernist style. The huge and opulent palace was built using finest teakwood, Carrara marble and Bohemian chandeliers. It was surrounded by a large park with impeccably manicured lawns, fountains and superbly cut flower beds. The rest of the estate included club house with swimming pool, tennis courts and gymnasium, staff quarters and extensive stables.

A side view of the Samudra Mahal. (© Shivang Vijay Singh of Dumraon)

Maharaja Madhavrao Scindia must have truly loved Samudra Mahal as he made a WILL in 1925, in which he clearly stated that Samudra Mahal must never be sold and be always be used for the family. Madhav maharaj died soon after. His son, Maharaja Jiwajirao Scindia continued the love affair of the Scindias with Samudra Mahal. Jiwajirao Scindia was one of the biggest and most successful owners of race horses in India. The racing season in Bombay began in November and extended till March. Jiwajirao would spend the season in Bombay at the Samudra Mahal which was virtually across the road from the race course to see his horses flying the Scindia colors win race after race.

Main gate of the Samudra Mahal, decorated for the wedding of princess Padmavati raje Scindia to Maharaja of Tripura. (© Shivang Vijay Singh of Dumraon)

During this time, a part of the Gwalior court would shift to Samudra Mahal. Maharaja Jiwajirao would fly down to Bombay in his personal aircraft but a vast army of staff would be dispatched to Bombay by road and rail. . His personal aides would travel with him but senior officers would arrive separately. Almost 50 cars would be sent down from Gwalior containing provisions sufficient for four months. The staff that moved from Gwalior to Bombay included typists, clerks, cooks, waiters, physicians, compounders, dressing boys, drivers and even dog boys to attend maharaja’s dogs. These people were in addition to the permanent based staff at Samudra Mahal. Thus, for few months, this part of Worli in Bombay would turn into mini-Gwalior with all paraphernalia of a grand princely court.

Maharaja Jiwajirao Scindia and members of the Gwalior court at the lavish wedding banquet of Princess Padmaraje Scindia at Samudra Mahal. (© Shivang Vijay Singh of Dumraon)

Samudra Mahal played an intrinsic part in the lives of the Scindias. Jiwajirao and Vijayaraje spent their honeymoon in Bombay. Rajmata Vijayaraje Scindia writes as to how she entered her suite in Samudra Mahal to find every surface displaying spectacular jewels. Apparently, it was her birthday and Jiwajirao had ordered all Bombay jewellers to display their wares so that she could select whatever she wanted. When Vijayaraje Scindia was pregnant with Madhavrao Scindia (the politician), she stayed here and gave birth to the heir to the Scindia throne.

Karamveer Bhaurao Patil, renowned social reformer , who was given 1500 acres of land and two palaces by Jiwajirao Scindia for promotion of education in rural Maharashtra.

Jiwajirao Scindia as a big patron of racing, gave the Samudra Mahal stables on lease to the Amateur riders club to promote horse riding in Bombay. Thus, Amatuer riding club had its foundation in this very palace. Another important event was when noted social reformer Karamveer Bahurao Patil, visited Jiwajirao Scindia at the Samudra Mahal and asked for his help with his Rayat Shikshan Sansthan, an organization he had founded to spread literacy to India’s villages. Jiwajirao promptly donated 1500 acres of land and two of his ancestral palaces at Shrigonda and Jamgaon in Ahmednagar district. This original donation by the Scindias still forms a substantial part of the corpus of the trust which has done pioneering work in Maharashtra’s villages.

23 June, 1950 - News article from American newspapers about people barging into the Samudra Mahal (Gwalior palace). It generated huge publicity and was covered by all major national and international newspapers.

After independence, and the abolition of princely states, dark clouds descended on Samudra Mahal. The new socialist govt looked down upon lavish royal residences. In 1952, there was a big debate in the Bombay legislative assembly about confiscating Samudra Mahal and converting it into housing colony for lower income groups. Madhu Dandavate, Indian socialist leader of 50s and 60s decided to target the Samudra mahal. He got a group of homeless people and barged into the Samudra Mahal where they squatted in the main reception hall. The squatters were later evicted but this generated huge publicity in national and international papers.

The dark clouds which were hovering over Samudra Mahal were affecting Scindia family as well. Jiwajirao’s health was deteriorating day by day. The marriage of his eldest daughter Padmavatiraje Scindia to the Maharaja of Tripura was the last grand occasion to take place in Samudra Mahal. Invitation was sent to 10,000 people and the festivities were extremely lavish. The wedding even got a mention in TIME magazine. Sadly, Jiwajirao Scindia died soon after at Samudra Mahal with his wife and young son looking over him. The palace would never be the same again.

Samudra Mahal was demolished in 1960s. Today large no of buildings stand in its place. This is the exact location of the Samudra Mahal. The tallest building is still called Samudra Mahal after the original palace.

The Scindias were faced with a huge estate duty which had to be paid in cash. Scindias were asset rich but cash poor. So under bad advice, Rajmata Vijayaraje Scindia decided to put the Samudra Mahal for sale. A group of buyers – Baburao Dhanwatey of Nagpur, Devchand Shah of Nipani and Manoharbhai Patel of Jabalpur purchased a large part of the state from the Scindias. The story of the sale of hazy and murky but what comes out is that Scindias ended with little or no money from the sale. The buyers demolished the palace, sold of the marble and crystal for pittance and but a large commercial complex called Shiv Sagar Estate. The small part of the palace clubhouse still with the Scindias was later developed into a lavish apartment tower where they maintain a lavish apartment.

A satellite image of the Samudra Mahal palace estate (marked in red) located at Haji Ali in Mumbai. The palace, lawns, fountains, flowerbeds now replaced by ugly high rise buildings. The Haji Ali Dargah and the Mahalakshmi Race Course can be clearly viewed too.

Today, a large group of buildings including Samudra Mahal apartments, Eden hall, Madhuli apartments, Ceejay house and Poonam chambers stand on the once fabled Samudra mahal estate, while memories of one of the most opulent residences in Bombay ever built remain only in photographs and the name – Samudra Mahal – “Palace by the Sea”.

By Akshay Chavan

Maratha Fort in London: Suvarnadurg – Severndroog Castle

2010-07-03T19:37:00.000+05:30

As your drive down to south London and towards Greenwich, the scene is as typical as it gets of the British capital. You may see Marks & Spencer, Booths, Hoodies walking by, old English pensioners sitting in a park feeding greedy and fat English pigeons and on a weekend evening, gangs on lads and ladettes on a night out. Alternatively, you may come across the posh “Guardian” readers attending alternative music festival or eating at the favourite organic food joints, while sneering at the popular culture. But certainly you wouldn’t expect to come across a fort, castle or a folly, whatever you choose to call it, with links to one of the strongest sea forts ever built in India and an integral part of Maratha history. I am talking about the Suvarnadurg fort in South London or Severndroog as the English call it. Marathas in Greenwich? Sounds weird!

The Suvarnadurg / Severndroog Castle in Shooters Hill, Greenwich, London

Suvarnadurg Fort (spelt Severndroog in English) is a fort that is located on a small island in the Arabian Sea, near Harnai in Konkan in Maharashtra. It was once considered to the one of the strongest sea forts ever built in India. Named Suvarnadurga or “The Golden Fort” it was considered as the pride or the “feather in the golden cap of Marathas”. Apart for defence it also had ship building facility. The building of the fort is credit to Adilshahs of Bijapur but it came under prominence when it came in the hands of the Marathas under Chhatrapati Shivaji. It comprises of the sea forts as well as a network of 3 land forts for its defence. This group of forts formed an impregnable fortress to protect the Maratha empire from the sea.

Arial view of the Suvarnadurg Fort, situated on the west coast of Maharashtra.

Marathas were the only power in India after the Cholas to have a powerful navy. Chhatrapati Shivaji realized importance of Sea power and hence established a strong navy. But the Maratha navy reached the epitome of its power under the powerful Maratha lord Kanhoji Angre (1667–1729). Kanhoji Angre was the admiral of the Maratha Navy. In 1713, the fort of Suvarnadurg was formally handed over to the Angres by Chhatrapati Shahu of Satara. Kanhoji Angre establised complete power over the west coast of Maharashtra stretching from Mumbai in the north to Vengrula in the South. His power was a great impediment to the British expansion in Konkan region and hence, the British dubbed him “Angria, the pirate” and Suvarnadurg was dubbed a “Pirate stronghold”.

Another view of the Suvarnadurg Fort

Consequent to the demise of Kanhoji Angre in 1729, the fort of Suvarnadurg passed in the hands of his son Tulaji Angre. He fell foul of the Peshwas. The Peshwas conspired with the British to defeat the Angres. The Peshwas and the British launched a joint attack on Suvarndurg fort. The joint siege of the fort lasted from March 25 to 2 April 1755. On 12 April 1755, Commodore James captured the fort and formally handed it over to the Peshwas. The Peshwas later ceded the fort back to the British. The British commander to captured the fort was Sir William James.

Sir William James, who captured Suvarnadurg fort from the Angre family, and in whose memory the Severndroog Castle was built. © National Maritime Museum, Greenwich, London

William James was born in Pembrokeshire in the summer of 1720 to a poor Welsh miller. He ran away to sea in 1732 and by the age of 18, was commanding a ship in the West Indies under Captain Hawke. It was during this period that he was captured by the Spanish and when released, drifted at sea until being captured again in Cuba. In 1747 he joined the East India Company and was appointed Commander of its Marine Forces fleet which protected its trading ships. Here he participated in the siege and capture of Suvarnadurg.

A historic photo of the Severndroog Castle

In 1759, he returned to England a rich man and had two children with Anne Goddard. They lived in Gerard Street in Soho. James went on to become a director of the East India Company and was also elected as the MP for West Looe in Cornwall. He was also awarded a baronetcy in 1778, becoming Sir William James. He purchased Park Farm estate at Eltham in 1774. It was during the festivities of his daughter’s wedding in December 1783 that James suffered a stroke and died. He was buried in Eltham churchyard. After the death of Sir William James, Lady James built a memorial to him on the Shooters Hill.

Another view of the Severndroog Castle

Over centuries, the Severndroog Castle, or the Suvarnadurg of London has stood tall over the Shooters Hill. During the second world war, it was the highest point between London and Paris and even served as a lookout post. In 50s and 60s the castle deteriorated sharply. It was boarded up and derelict. However, thanks to citizen’s initiative, a trust has been formed to raise funds to maintain and restore the castle. It is called the “Severndroog Castle Building Preservation Trust”. It is being planned to open a cafe and community center in this castle which will would preserve this unique gem which links this south London building to a powerful Maratha fortress on the west coast of Maharashtra.

By Akshay Chavan

Kakori Kababs: World’s softest kebabs for toothless old Nawabs

2010-05-30T21:46:00.002+05:30

There are very few articles which are written based on what authors have last night for dinner and perhaps this is one of those rare articles. But the Kakori kebabs which I had last night were so delicious, so soft and so succulent that I had to write an ode to these kebabs. I could hardly believe that meat could be made so soft. The Kakori kebabs are considered to be the world’s softest kebabs and they are said to “melt in your mouth”. That’s how the Kakori kebabs are, to be tasted to be believed!

The Kakori Kebabs: Softest kekabs in the world which just melt in your mouth

A village called Kakori and the Indian Freedom Movement

Kakori is a quaint little village around 15 kms from the city of Lucknow. It is a dirty and dusty north Indian village with no special distinguishable features. However, its name has been etched in annals of Indian history for an event which took place on August 9, 1925. It would be called as the “Kakori conspiracy”.

On this day, like any other normal day, the Number 8 down train from Shahjahanpur to Lucknow chugged along the village of Kakori. But then, someone pulled the chain and brought the train to an halt. The train guard got down to investigate as to in which compartment the chain had been pulled and why. Suddenly, a group of burly Indian men overpowered the guard and the engine driver. They broke into the safe in the guard’s cabin, stuffed all the money into their rugsacks and escaped. It looked like a plain train robbery, like those in wild wild west, done by Indian versions of Jesse James and Billy the Kid.

Revolutionary Ashfaqulla Khan, the main conspiratory of the famous "Kakori conspiracy" who was hanged in December, 1927 despite widespread protests.

However, these men were no ordinary train robbers. They were members of the Hindustan Republican Association, that was created to carry out revolutionary activities against the British empire. The money formed part of the government revenue which was being taken to Lucknow to deposit in the local treasury. The main architects of this daring plan were ten revolutionaries Ramaprasad Bismil, Rajendra Lahiri, Thakur Roshan Singh, Sachindra Bakshi, Chandrasekhar Azad, Keshab Chakravarthy, Banwari Lal, Mukundi Lal, Manmathnath Gupta and Ashfaqulla Khan.

Chandrashekhar Azad, another great Indian revolutionary involved in the "Kakori conspiracy"

The government, shaken up by the daring robbery, swung into action. Arrest warrants were issued against the ten and rewards for their capture were announced. Other arrest warrants were issued for the leaders of Hindustan Republican Association. With the exception of Chandrashekhar Azad all were caught, most of them betrayed by their friends. Azad was trapped later by the police on February 27, 1931. He killed himself, rather than be captured, with revolvers in both hands, after he had exhausted his ammunition in the gun fight with the police. In December 1927, most of the conspirators were hanged despite strong public protests and clemency petitions. But there heroes became immortal in Indian history.

The origin of the Kakori Kebabs

Enough of revolution and conspiracies, and back to the topic of the succulent kebabs. There are several stories behind the origins of the Kakori kebabs. But none of these stories can be confirmed for their accuracy. It is said that these kebabs were invented by the chefs of Kakori for an old and toothless Nawab of Awadh, who had difficulty in eating meat. Nawab asked chefs all over his kingdom to prepare special meat for him and this is how these kebabs came into existence. Another story is that the kebabs are of more recent origins. Kakori is famous for the “Malihabadi” brand of mangoes. Each mango season, “mango dinners” are very famous in mango orchards of Awadh. A mango dinner is a dinner in a mango orchard, was followed by a variety of chilled mangoes served in great style.

Nawabs of Awadh were great patrons of Mango banquets which were held in Mango orchards of Awadh during the Mango season.

The story goes that some time in late 1800s, at a mango party thrown by a local aristocrat Nawab Syed Mohammad Haider Kazmi, a british official made a snide remark about the coarse texture of the seekh kebabs. Incensed by this insult, Nawab sahib summoned his summoned his rakabdars, hakims and attars the very next day and asked them to evolve a more refined variety of the Seekh Kabab. Ten days of extensive research and experimentation resulted in the now famous `Kakori Kababs', the softest and finest version of seekh kebabs.

Nawabs of Awadh were famed for their love of architecture and cusine.

The mince for the kabab was to be obtained from the `Raan ki Machhli' (tendon of the leg of mutton) and rawaz or animal fat was replaced by khoya, black pepper by white pepper and a brand new mix of powdered spices to the perfect blend. Nawab sahib, then invited the same British official for a banquet and presented this new version of the kebab was met with a great applause. Since then, the popularity of these kebabs has grown far and wide. Thanks to the popularity of Awadhi cuisine, these kebabs, once an exclusive preserve of royalty is available in restaurants all over the world

The Kakori Kebab Recipe

Fortunately, we do not need legions of chefs and khansamas to savour these delicious and soft kebabs. If you feel grand and want to impress your guest with a royal treat or just want to pamper yourself, this is the recipe for the kakori kebabs:

Ingredients:

Minced meat (keema) - 1 kg (Without fat)
Raw papaya - 100 gm
Salt to taste

Masala A: -

Yellow chili - 5 no
White pepper - 5 gm
Cloves - 8 nos
Mace - 2 blades
Nutmeg - 1/8 th tsp.

Masala B: -

Black cardamom - 4 nos.
Green cardamom - 6 nos
Coriander seeds - 10 gms

Masala C (paste form): -

Copra - 50 gm
Poppy seed (Khuskhus) - 10 gm
Shahi Jeera - 5 gm
Khoya - 200 gms.
Onion (to be fried brown - 100 gm and crushed)
Grind into fine paste :-
Garlic - 1 pod.
Ginger - 10 gm
Roasted gram flour - 200 gm
Pure Ghee - 100 gm/ml

Method:

Mince the meat till very smooth (mince without washing as it helps in binding). Add papaya paste, salt and powdered masalas (A+B). Place the mixture in a deep pan keep a live coal in a katori or cup in the center. Put 2 tablespoons of ghee on coal and cover quickly for 'dhungaar'(smiking). Keep covered for half an hour. Mix crushed onions, paste C and ginger garlic paste. Add to smoked mince. Keep for half an hour. Add roasted gram flour and blend well. Heat skewers slightly and grease. Take a portion of mince mixture and spread on skewers with slightly wet hand into oblong roll around the skewers. Roast on kabab griller on live coal for few minutes till they turn to a golden pink brown. Take out carefully from the rods with the help of cloth. Arrange on serving dish and serve garnished with onion rings, slit green chillies and fresh coriander chutney.

PS: If you are making these kebabs for dinner anytime soon, do let me know. I would love to pop in to help you with the preparations and maybe err..... stay on for dinner...... if thats ok with you....

By Akshay Chavan

The last surviving Mughal Throne

2010-05-23T13:14:00.000+05:30

Deep inside the imperial Topkapi palace in Istanbul lays the treasure room of the Ottoman sultans. The jewels and treasure on display are simply beyond belief. Armour studded with diamonds, coffee sets of solid gold studded with rubies, emeralds of unbelievable size. All protected by the watchful eyes of the commandos of the Turkish army. These chambers hold the spoils of generations of ottoman conquests and spoils from as far as Austria to Morocco. When Ottomans were overthrown by Kemal Attaturk, they had to flee leaving behind all their jewels and treasures. As a result the Ottoman jewel collection survived intact.

The Mughal style throne in the Topkapi palace treasury in Istanbul, gifted to Ottoman emperors by Nadir Shah and believed to be a part of the “Delhi loot”

The collection never fails to entrance visitors. I was so taken by the beauty of the collection, that i made five trips to the treasure chamber on my visit to the Topkapi palace (In contrast, I made only three trips to the treasure chamber holding the fabled Kohinoor in London). What struck me the most significant was a Mughal looking throne called the Nadiri throne. This was gifted by the infamous Nadir Shah of Iran to the Ottoman emperors.

The throne is a masterpiece of the art of Indian craftsmen. It is in the form of a high-edged table resting on four legs. At the front is a low stool on which the feet were to be paced. The throne is covered with a cushion decorated with gold braid and pearls. The entire surface of the throne is covered with gold, with a red and green enamel wash and decorated with rubies, emeralds, and pearls.

The Topkapi palace at Istanbul, home to the Turkish Sultans and their treasure

Nadir Shah, a notorious tyrant plundered Delhi in 1739. He massacred the local population and carried the entire Mughal wealth including the Peacock throne and the Kohinoor to Iran. What is not that well known, is that Mughal had 9 different thrones to be used for different occasions and all nine of these thrones were taken to Iran. It is very likely that this throne is one of those nine thrones taken to Iran.

Former Indian PM, Shri Atal Behari Vajpayee looking at the Mughal throne on display, at Topkapi palace at Istanbul.

This also makes it the last surviving Mughal throne. After Nadir shah’s death, the famous Peacock throne was broken down and destroyed by the assassins. Other Mughal thrones met the same fate. Meanwhile in Delhi, the later Mughals used a crude silver replica of the original peacock throne. The last emperor to use this throne was Bahadur Shah Zafar. However, this throne got destroyed in the revolt of 1857. When British recaptured Delhi from the rebels, they thoroughly sacked the Red Fort for treasure. This silver throne was broken down and distributed as spoils of war.

Thus, according to my research, the Nadiri throne at Topkapi remains the only surviving Mughal throne in the world and an indisputable part of India’s, Iran’s and Turkey’s shares history.

By Akshay Chavan

Darvaza: The Gate of Hell

2010-05-04T21:01:00.001+05:30

Can you imagine something so unreal, so diabolical that it can only be something out of a Hollywood horror movie? By Hollywood, I mean the ones with great special effects like “Lord of the Rings” , not those terrible 80s ghoulies where teenagers get killed in stupid summer camps. I wouldn’t even mention bollywood as the scariest bollywood has come to special effects horror is the demon “Samri” of Ramsay horror fame complete with background score of “samri... samri... samri...” The title “Darvaza: The gate of Hell” could also be mistaken for a Ram Gopal Verma Z-grade horror too, with zero plots and loud sound effects.

Honestly, I prefer Ramsay’s purana mandirs and havelis (being a history buff as you know), than watching Ram Gopal Verma’s torture flicks (I am sure anyone who has seen RGV ki Aag knows what “horror” and “torture” means).

The Darvaza: A gate to hell?

Coming back to the topic of my post, when I saw the photos of the “Darvaza” , it actually took me really long to actually believe that it was real. Do look at the photo above and you will know what I mean. It is simply so surreal, so diabolical that it simply makes your hair stand and ask “what is this?”

What is Darvaza: the gate of hell?

This “gate of hell” is actually a gas crater situated in the Turkmenistan desert. In 1971, the geologists were drilling for gas. Then suddenly during the drilling they have found an underground cavern, it was so big that the entire drilling site with all the equipment and camps got deep deep under the ground. The crater measures roughly 60 meters in diameter and 20 meters deep. The geologists apparently concluded the cavern was filled with poisonous gas, and decided that they should light the cavern on fire to burn off the Gas. The hole has been burning for more than 35 years since. The smell of burning sulphur can be detected from a distance and becomes quite strong as you near the crater.

This crater has been described as one of the most apocalyptic landscapes in the world. I don’t know if RGV reads my blog or not, but if any of you see this intriguing, surreal and bizarre phenomena in any of the bollywood films, you know where they got their “inspiration” from, plus I would be suing for royalties. Sorry RGV, I saw it first!

By Akshay Chavan

Maharaja of Alwar and the Coronation Coach Car

2010-04-21T21:44:00.004+05:30

Can a vehicle be a car and a coach at the same time? No it can't? Think again, ofcourse it can! Such a car cum coach 2-in-1 vehicle was owned by none other than the Maharajas of Alwar. Perhaps there was no greater collection of quirky cars in the world than with Indian Maharajas. One such quirky car was the “coronation coach” car belonging to the Maharaja of Alwar. It was a car designed like a coach! This “coach” car was made for Maharaja Jay Singh of Alwar, a man once described by British as “sinister beyond belief”.

The Lanchester 40 HP car of the Maharaja of Alwar designed like a royal coach or a landau. Note the place at the back for footmen to sit! (Source: Team-BHP.com)

Maharaja Sir Jay Singh of Alwar, the man who ordered the coach car and who was once described as “sinister beyond belief”

The coronation coach car was one of his eccentricities. The model of the car was an Lanchester 40HP. The Lanchester 40 was introduced at the first post-war Motor Show in London in November 1919. The Forty was a direct competitor for the Rolls-Royce Silver Ghost, and cost only slightly less for the chassis. It was a more modern car than the ageing 'Ghost' and with a top speed in tourer form of 80mph (129 km/h), it was a better performer. The Lanchester was further improved with front wheel brakes in 1924, a more powerful engine in 1925, and low-pressure balloon tyres in 1926.

Another photograph of the coach car at the time of its sale

Naturally, the big Lanchester attracted a select and wealthy clientele. The most famous owner was HRH The Duke of York, the later King George VI. In 1926, the Duke's first-born infant daughter made her first motor car journey in her father's Lanchester: None other than the present Queen, Elizabeth! Several cars also went to Indian potentates.

The image of the car which appeared in the Oct 1924 edition of the “Popular Mechanics” magazine.

The Maharajah of Alwar had a remarkable state carriage built on an extra-long chassis, and was said to be modelled on the coronation coach of the European royalty. This extraordinary car created quite a sensation globally. The magazine “Popular Mechanics” in its Oct 1924 carried an article on the Alwar car with the following description:

“Mounted on a chassis that has a wheel-base of 178 inches, one of the world’s most luxurious automobiles has been delivered to the Maharajah of Alwar. It is designed after the pattern of the formal horse-drawn landau used by the ruler and takes its place as a state coach. The body seats four persons and is suspended on C-springs, the lower extremities of which are continued to meet the underside of the carriage and thus prevent excessive swing or rolling while giving complete isolation from road shocks and jars. There is said to be no sense of mechanical propulsion, the feeling being more that of floating than of riding on wheels. Four side lamps are lighted by electricity.”

The Alwar car as seen at the Delhi motor rally in 1950s (Source: Team-BHP.com)

Maharaja Jay singh did not enjoy the car very long. Tired of his cruel and sadistic nature, a large section of peasantry revolted against him. The British deposed him in 1933. He then went into exile in France and died at Paris four years afterwards, aged 54. What followed after his death is one of the most macabre stories involving royal cars. People who had been living in his fear refused to believe that he was actually dead. As a result, his dead body was dressed in full state regalia , put on this coronation coach car in upright position and driven around the streets of Alwar, just to prove to the people that he was indeed dead.

The car in a bad and dilapidated shape photographed sometime in 1970s or 80s (Source: Team-BHP.com)

It is believed that Alwar family may have sold the car in 1970s or 80s. Some pictures of this car do exist but the current location of the car is unknown. Some believe it to be in India while others think it has been sold abroad. But this strangely shaped car is a testimony to the sheer eccentricities of the maharajas.

Now back to my original question, can a vehicle be a car and a swan at the same time? No it can't? Well errrrr.......... its a long story which I shall tell some other time.

By Akshay Chavan.

Ba Ba Black Sheep and his master: the King of England

2010-03-21T16:31:00.003+05:30

This article is not about Indian royalty but as interesting. We all grew up on nursery rhymes. But I don’t think any one of us actually thought of what they actually mean or how they originated. For us, they are just innocent children’s rhymes. It may come as a surprise but most the nursery rhymes are a parody of events which happened in medieval England. The common folk created these rhymes to lampoon the socio-economic setup of those times. An Indian parallel would be jingles and rhymes chanted by village children or even something like “Gali gali mey shor har...........” etc. Let us look at some real and fascinating stories behind these nursery rhymes.

The real story of Ba Ba Black Sheep:

King Edward I for England , “the master” of Ba Ba Black Sheep who imposed custom duty on wool on 1272.

You couldn’t imagine Ba Ba Black sheep was actually an parody on the Tax system in the 13th century England ! In those times wool trade was a very big and important business also the chief source of income for small peasants. Anyone, who had land from the nobles to small farmers, raised sheep. However, after returning from Crusades in 1272, King Edward I of England imposed heavy taxes on wool. As a result, the peasants lost a big chunk of their income.

As a result of these new tax laws, 1/3rd of the produce went to the king (The master) and other 1/3rd to the nobility and church (The dame). The last stanza originally was “and just one for the little boy who cries down the lane”, which meant that the poor farmers who toiled and worked hard looking after the sheep got just 1/3rd after the payments to king and nobles and so were unhappy. Hence the term “cries down the lane”. This was changed to “lives down the lane” to make it more palatable to children.

Baa Baa Black Sheep,

Have you any wool?
Yes, sir, yes, sir,
Three bags full;
One for the master, ( 1/3rd share for the king as tax)
One for the dame, ( 1/3rd share for the nobility & church as tax)
And one for the little boy
Who cries down the lane (Poor farmers got only remaining 1/3rd share after taxes and hence were unhappy)

The real story of Humpty Dumpty:

Who was Humpty Dumpty who sat on a wall? A common misconception is that Humpty Dumpty was an egg. This imagery was popularised by Lewis Carrol, the author of Alice in Wonderland, in his book “Through the looking glass” in 1872. This is how everyone started to assume that Humpty Dumpty was an egg.

Humpty Dumpty as popularized by Lewis Carrol in his book “Through the looking glass” in 1872.

The truth is that Humpty Dumpty was a large cannon belonging to the Royalist army in the English Civil War and deployed in the city of Colchester. The city was strongly fortified by the Royalists and was laid to siege by the Parliamentarians (Roundheads). In 1648 the town of Colchester was a walled town with a castle and several churches and was protected by the city wall. Standing immediately adjacent the city wall, was St Mary's Church. A huge cannon, colloquially called Humpty Dumpty, was strategically placed on the wall next to St Mary's Church. The historical events detailing the siege of Colchester are well documented - references to the cannon (Humpty Dumpty) are as follows:

June 15th 1648 - St Mary's Church is fortified and a large cannon is placed on the roof which was fired by ‘One-Eyed Jack Thompson'
July 14th / July 15th 1648 - The Royalist fort within the walls at St Mary's church is blown to pieces and their main cannon battery (Humpty Dumpty) is destroyed.

The church of St Mary located on walls of the city of Colchester, on top of which a big cannon called Humpty Dumpty “sat on a wall” and “had a great fall” in a battle in July 1648.

A shot from Parliamentary cannon succeeded in damaging the wall beneath Humpty Dumpty which caused the cannon to tumble to the ground. The Royalists, or Cavaliers, 'all the King's men' attempted to raise Humpty Dumpty on to another part of the wall. However, because the cannon , or Humpty Dumpty, was so heavy ' All the King's horses and all the King's men couldn't put Humpty together again!' This had a drastic consequence for the Royalists as the strategically important town of Colchester fell to the Parliamentarians after a siege lasting eleven weeks.

Humpty Dumpty sat on the wall, ( The cannon called Humpty Dumpty was placed on the wall)

Humpty Dumpty had a great fall; ( The cannon fell down in the battle of Colchester)

All the king’s horses and all the king’s men
Couldn’t put Humpty together again (Royalist army tried to repair the cannon but failed)

The real story of Ring-a-Ring of Roses:

The Great Plague - Black Death of Europe (and we all fall down)

Now we come to the most ominous and macabre of all nursery rhymes. The much liked “Ring-a-ring of roses” actually belongs in a B-grade Hollywood or Bollywood movie. I was quiet shocked to learn what the words actually meant and it has completely changed my perspectives of this song.

This tune has its origins in the bubonic plague of 1665 or Black Death which swept through Europe. One of the first symptoms of the plague were rashes or rings of rose colour which appeared on the skin. In those days, sweet smelling herbs (Posies) were considered to be a cure for the disease. Then came the symptoms of sneezing and coughing (Aitshoo). Also, the mortality rate in plague was very high around 60%. This rhyme was a sad parody laughing at their own misery.

Ring-a-Ring o'Rosies     (The symptoms – rings of plague appear)
A Pocket full of Posies (We take posies as medicine)
"A-tishoo! A-tishoo!"   (We start coughing and sneezing)
We all fall Down!        (We all die of plague)

Queen Marie Antoinette of France, is she the Jill whose head "came tumbling after"?

So now you know where these popular rhymes originate. There is even a suggestion that “Jack and Jill” in the rhyme could have been King Louis XVI of France, who was beheaded in the French Revolution (“Lost his crown”). Soon after, his wife Marie Antoinette was too beheaded by the revolutionaries (“Jill came tumbling after”). But this remains unconfirmed. I wonder if Indian nursery rhymes too have such fascinating origins. Unfortunately I don’t know any Indian rhymes except “Machli Jal ki Rani hai.............” Where could that have come from? Any idea?

By Akshay Chavan

Maharaja of Morvi’s Gold Anklet : The Intimation of Royalty

2010-03-14T18:31:00.008+05:30

Gold is considered sacred by Hindus and is worshipped as Lakshmi. On Diwali, it is considered auspicious to buy gold. Also, Hindus consider feet as unclean and impure. Hence, they don’t wear gold jewellery on feet, as it is considered an insult to goddess Lakshmi. That is except royalty. In days of yore, wearing a gold on feet was a prerogative of royalty, a symbol of being masters of wealth. And it was kings alone who could wear and bestow this privilege on others. Traditionally, this was done through bestowing the gold anklet in the court. This was an Indian equivalent of a knighthood.

A gold anklet called Tazim of the Maharaja Waghji Ravaji of Morvi up for auction at Sotheby and reputed to be worth 2-3 crores! (Image: Sotheby)

The reason for my interest in this anklet is that a spectacular gold anklet belonging to the Maharaja of Morvi is up for auction at Sotheby. Its cost is estimated to be around £300,000-500,000 or almost 2 to 3 crores. Consisting of 18 gold-wrapped twirling links, each encrusted with an oval finely cut diamond and four lateral cabochon rubies, the anklet is inscribed on the reverse in devanagari with the maker’s name. A photograph is also present in the Sotheby catalog which illustrates HH Thakur Sahib Waghji II Ravaji, the Maharajah of Morvi, wearing the anklet on his right ankle, probably taken on the occasion of his becoming a Knight Grand Commander of Order of the Indian Empire G.C.I.E.

The anklet called tazim is crafted in gold or silver. It is a hereditary chain anklet that was a sign of special recognition and honour granted by a ruler. It was worn on the right ankle; however, when granted in pairs, they were worn on both ankles. The receivers of this ornament were called tazimi sardar and were entitled to several privileges. Princely states such a Jammu and Kashmir, Bikaner, Jaipur all had Tazimi sardars.

Shrimant Tararaje Dabhade, pictured with her father Raje Laxmanrao Bhonsle of Nagpur, wearing the famous "Toda" , gold anklet of the Sarsenapati Dabhade family originally gifted to Sarsenapati Umabai Dabhade by Chhatrapati Shahu of Satara. The anklet can be viewed on her left leg, hidden within the fold of her sari. (Image: Satyasheelraje Dabhade).

The same tradition was followed by Marathas too. Satyasheelraje Dabhade from the Sarsenapati Dabhade family of Talegaon Dabhade, who were the commander in chiefs of the Maratha army, is in possession of a valuable antique gold toda (anklet) given by Chhatrapati Shahu to his ancestor Sarsenapati Umabai Dabhade. This granted to right of wearing gold on feet by the male and female members of the Senapati Dabhade family, a tradition followed to this day.

Today, in 2010, this called Tazim or Toda has become egalitarian. Anyone, irrespective of family, caste or religion can wear gold anklets. A reflection of changing and egalitarian times. What remains is the Morvi gold anklet and memories of a time when a gold anklet served as intimation of royalty.

By the way, who would dare to wear the 3 crore Morvi gold anklet on his feet? Certainly not me, would you?

By Akshay Chavan

Maharani of Baroda’s Picasso Drawing: SCÈNE DE CORRIDA

2010-03-09T21:34:00.006+05:30

Maharani Sitadevi of Baroda was an ultra sophisticated jetsetter who as renowned in Europe and United States for her fabulous collection of jewels and works of art. After her separation from Maharaja Pratapsinhrao Gaekwad, she moved to Europe and maintained lavish establishments in Paris, London, Monaco and Palm Beach. Maharani Sitadevi was a proud owner of a rare and valuable Picasso drawing. While it known that many princely houses owned Picassos including Burdwan, Hyderabad and Jamnagar, but their details very hazy. Fortunately, we do have this information in case of the Baroda Picasso.

The valuable Pablo Picasso drawing called SCÈNE DE CORRIDA (Scene of Bullfighting) owned by Maharani Sitadevi Gaekwar of Baroda

The Baroda Picasso was called SCÈNE DE CORRIDA or Scene of Bull fighting. Information search of this painting reveals that Bullfight Scene is a brush and ink drawing on paper made by Picasso in the château of Vauvenargues, near Aix-en-Provence, where he and his partner Jacqueline Roque had moved in 1958. Executed on 25 February 1960, this is number ten of fourteen drawings on the theme of the bullfight that Picasso made on the same day. Picasso dated, numbered and signed all of them.

The drawings depict different moments and protagonists of the bullfight, from the banderilleros trying to spear the bull with their banderillas (decorated barbed darts), to the horse-riding picadores (horsemen that bullfight) attacking the bull with a long spear to weaken it, and the matador, the star bullfighter who engages in the ultimate death of the bull. Bullfight Scene illustrates a dramatic moment in which the picador spears the bull as it charges, while the matador stands in the background, ready to step in for the final phase of the killing to begin. They were first shown at the Galerie Louise Leiris, Paris, at the end of 1960, together with other subjects inspired by Spain.

We do not know as to how and when Maharani Sitadevi Gaekwar bought this drawing, but we do know that she was the first owner of this Picasso. The confirmation of her ownership comes from the fact that this drawing was a part of her art collection which she sold when she was in financial difficulty. The complete list of these works of art is mentioned in the catalogue titled -Vente de la Collection de la Maharani de Baroda.

This drawing remained in the private collection till it was sold at Sotheby in London in 2002. The buyer then resold it again in May 2009. The painting went for a whopping 170,500 USD or a whopping 77 lakhs. It is now owned by the Tate Gallery in London.

By Akshay Chavan

Newalkars of Jhansi : The Prequel

2010-03-07T13:39:00.007+05:30

We all know the tale of Rani Lakshmibai of Jhansi. Also, based on my previous article, the fate of her son Damodar Rao after she died. But what about the history of Jhansi state before Rani Lakshmibai? Again, sadly in our history books, this is a big black hole. There is very little awareness of the Newalkar dynasty of Jhansi and it’s past history. Here we look at the history of Jhansi state and Newalkar dynasty before Manukarnika Tambe became Rani Lakshmibai Newalkar of Jhansi.

The family tree of the Newalkar dynasty of Jhansi (Created by and copyright owner, Mr Abhijit Malwade, Mumbai)

1. The state of Jhansi

In heart of India lies Bundelkhand “The land of the Bundelas”. Once upon a time, it was divided into several kingdoms, the most important of them was Jhansi. Territorially, it was not a very large state. It lay on the southern foot hills of vindhyas. To its north was Gwalior and Samthar state, on the east lay Dhasan river and the state of Hammirpur. To south lay Lalitpur parganas and Orchha state and to west lay Datia and parts Gwalior state. It was 4,986 sq miles in area and had a population of around 9 lakhs. It comprised of 2140 villages. The main rivers were vetravati (Chambal) and dhasan. The main town was Jhansi which had a strong fort. It was in possession of Raja Chhatrasal . Peshwa Bajirao came to the aid of Raja Chhatrasal against the mughal subedar. In gratitude, Raja Chhatrasal declared Bajirao to be his son and gave territory worth one crore as gift to the Marathas. It came to be known as Maratha Bundelkhand.

Peshwa Bajirao divided the territories which he had received into 3 parts or subas with a subedar (governor) to administer them. First part was given to Sardar Govindpant Bundele . It comprised of Jalaun, Sagar, Gurserai etc. Second part was given to Ali Bahadur, son of Bajirao from his love Mastani. This comprised of Banda, Kalpi etc. The smallest part which comprised of Jhansi was given to a minor official named Naro Shankar Motiwale.

The Parola fort in Jalgaon district of Maharashtra, ancestral home of the Newalkar family.

In 1756, a revolt of local Gosavi raja forced the Maratha subedar to flee Jhansi. Peshwa appointed a brave warrior named Raghunath Hari Newalkar to Jhansi to quell the revolt. He quelled the revolt and re-established Peshwa’s rule in Jhansi. As a reward, he was made the subedar of Jhansi. On becoming the subedar, Raghunath Hari maintained a large army to maintain control over the local Bundela rajas.

2. Raghunathrao Newalkar: The Founder of Jhansi state

The founder of the Newalkar dynasty was Raghunathrao who a village headman of Pavas in Rajapur district of Konkan in Maharashtra. He had two sons first Khanderao and second, Damodar pant. Damodar Pant Newalkar had three sons, Raghopant, Sadashiv pant and Hari Pant. All the three sons were brave fearless warriors.The Peshwas were so impressed with them that they soon rose to a high position in the army of Malharrao Holkar. As a result of their valour, the Newalkar family was given the village of Parole in Maharashtra in jagir. Raghopant died in the battlefield. Sadashiv Pant and Hari Pant’s son Lakshmanrao looked after the jagir in Parole. The Hari Pant’s second son was Raghunath Hari, who had been sent by Peshwa to Jhansi to quell the rebellion there and then given the governorship of Jhansi as a reward.

Fascinating Fact: Raghunath Hari Newalkar was the first Indian royal who could read, write and speak in English!

Raghunath Hari was a brave and kind warrior. He was known all over Bundelkhand for his valour and chivalry. He died in 1796 and was succeeded by his brother Shivraobhau. He too was a brave warrior. In his time, Peshwa Bajirao II was the ruler in Pune and Maratha civil war broke out. The Newalkars were subedars or governors of Jhansi on behalf of the Peshwas and hence had to send administrative reports and taxes to Pune every year. However, talking advantage of the confusion, Shivraobhau stopped the practice and declared the quasi independence of Jhansi state.

3. Shivraobhau Newalkar: Rani of Jhansi’s Father in law.

It was during the reign of Shivraobhau that the British first came to Jhansi. The British wanted to increase their influence in Bundelkhand. Most of the Bundela rajas were under the suzerainty of the Subedar of Jhansi. Hence, the British felt that it was better if they became friends with the ruler of Jhansi. On 18th November 1803, Shivraobhau and the British signed a treaty of friendship.

It was this treaty which helped British expand their influence in Bundelkhand. Jhansi and the British signed a second treaty of Friendship on 6th February 1804 as per which Jhansi took and undertaking that it would not enter into relations with any foreign power. Shivraobhau maintained good relations with the British. In a letter to the Board of Directors of the British East India Company, the then Governor General Lord Wellesely makes a favourable mention of Jhansi ruler as a valuable “ally of the British”. Shivraobhau ruled Jhansi for around 18 years. He suddenly fell ill in 1814. Realising that he will not survive long, he handed over the reins of kingdom of Jhansi to his grandson Ramchandrarao and retired to the banks of Ganges as a sadhu. He died soon after.

Shivraobhau had three sons, Krishna rao, Raghunath rao and Gangadhar rao. Krishna rao died young in 1811 and was succeeded by his son Ramchandrarao. Since Ramchandrarao was a minor, the kingdom was ruled by his mother Sakhubai as regent along with the old loyal Dewan Gopalraobhau.

4. Sakhubai: The villainous queen of Jhansi

Ramchandrarao was Rani Sakhubai’s only son but she was a curel and a wicked queen. She wanted to destroy her own son and take over the reins of the kingdom. She made many attempts to kill her own son Ramchandrarao! Having failed in most of these, she hatched a diabolical plan. Ramchandrarao was fond of swimming in the Laxmi Talav (Lake) on outskirts of Jhansi city. Rani Sakhubai had sharp spears placed in the very spot where Ramchandrarao swam every day. Fortunately, Lalu Kadolkar, a loyal servant of the Raja saved him in a nick of time. A furious Rani Sakhubai sent mercenaries and had the loyal servant hacked to pieces! Shocked by this action of his own mother, Ramchandrarao had Rani Sakhubai imprisoned for life. Overcome by remorse, Rani Sakhubai swallowed a diamond and killed herself, bringing an end to tragic chapter in history of Jhansi.

The Lakshmi Tal at Jhansi , where Queen Sakhubai tried to kill her own son.

5. Ramchandrarao Newalkar

The British signed a new treaty with Ramchandra Rao to establish their rights. According to this treaty, the British, in recognition of services rendered by Shiv Rao Bhau , gave his grandson, Ram Chandra Rao the state of Jhansi to carry forward his heritage and lineage. This historical treaty was signed on 17.11.1817 at Sipri on which Gopal Rao , the confidante minister of Ram Chandra Rao signed on his behalf.

Ramchandra Rao had friendly relations with British throughout. He helped british at Kalpi to defeat a brave rebellious Maratha Nana Pant for which Lord William Bentinck thanked Jhansi for his timely help. Lord Bentinck organised a court function to felicitate Ram Chandra Rao and conferred titles of Maharajadhiraj and Fidwi-i-Badshah-Jan-Jane-Hindostan on Ramchandra Rao.

Ramchandrarao’s reign was of chaos and neglect. The revenue and power of Jhansi state shrunk considerably. Ramchandrarao fell ill and died in 1835 without an heir. His wife adopted her sister’s son Krishnarao but this adoption was declared as invalid. Therefore, Raghunathrao the uncle of Ramchandra Rao was placed on the Jhansi throne. But he proved to be incompetent and extravagant ruler. Thus, in 1837, British removed him and took the state directly under his control.

6. Gangadhar Rao Newalkar: Rani Lakshmibai’s Husband

After Raghunath Raos’ death four names come up for the throne of Jhansi. Gangadhar Rao, Krishna Rao( Adopted son of Ramchandra Rao), Ali Bahadur and Maharani of Raghunath Rao. A commission was constituted to discuss the candidature headed by Mr.Spears of Gwalior State. After much consideration the commission recommended the named of Gangadhar Rao to the government which was accepted and thus Gangadhar became the ruler of Jhansi

However, it was stipulated that until he married, he will not have full rights over the kingdom. He was forced to maintain a subsidiary force and Jhansi had to pay for it. As a result, he was forced to cede territory worth Rs. 2,27,458.

The Rani Mahal at Jhansi, built by Raghunath Hari Newalkar. It was called Rani Mahal because Rani Lakshmibai lived there after the annexation of the kingdom.

After having restored the kingdom of Jhansi, British government also restored to him a sum of Rs 30 lakhs which had been confiscated earlier. Gangadhar rao, who was quiet extravagant, spent a lot of this money on acquiring trappings of princely power. He ordered various gold ornaments for his favourite elephant Siddabaksh. Dispite his extravagance, he did strengthen and fortify the Jhansi army. Under his tenure, Jhansi army had 5000 soldiers. In addition, there were 2000 policemen, a cavalry of 500, a special force of 100 soldiers and 4 cannons.

In his personal life, Gangadhar Rao was extremely old fashioned and repressive. His first wife, Ramabai had died and then 1842, he married a 12 year old girl - Manikarnika Tambe as his second wife. As per the Marathi tradition, she was given a new name of Lakshmibai. He was 40 at that time. The marriage ceremony was performed at the Ganesh mandir. Gangadhar rao had a son from Rani Lakshmibai but that child died very soon when he was only 4 months old. Overcome by grief, Maharaja Gangadhar Rao died on 21st November 1853. At that time, Rani Lakshmibai was only 18 years old. After Raja’s death, the British annexed Jhansi. Rani Lakshmibai said “Main meri Jhansi nahi doongi” and as they say, rest is history!

By Akshay Chavan

Kulcha: The Official Emblem of the Nizams of Hyderabad

2010-01-08T23:26:00.004+05:30

As cold wave sweeps over north India, in street corners across cities, towns and villages, hungry people wolf down piping chole-kulche and feel nice and good. “Kulcha” along with chole is one of the favourite snacks of north India. Kulcha is north Indian bread made from finely milled wheat flour (maida). It is generally eaten with choley (chickpea curry). The official definition of Kulcha is “Pan Cooked Leavened Flatbread”. But, why am I talking about chole-kulcha on a blog about Indian royalty? Because, “Kulcha” was the official symbol of the Asaf Jahi dynasty and even appeared on the Hyderabad state flag!

Tasty and soft Kulcha, a type of naan bread prepared in north India. The official emblem of the mighty Asaf Jahi dynasty that ruled over Hyderabad.

You wouldn’t normally associate kulcha bread with the mighty Asaf jahi dynasty that ruled over Hyderabad. It is more known for its biryanis and mouth watering kebabs rather than it’s kulcha. But the truth is that it enjoyed far more exalted status than any other food product. “Kulcha” was the official symbol of the Asaf Jahi dynasty. It is the only food product to appear on emblem of any royal family in the world! The kucha appeared not only on their Coat of Arms but also on the official flag of Hyderabad stare. There is no similar precedent of a royal family having a food product as their emblem. The only equivalent would be if a French noble family would have a baguette or Italian princely house a foccacia bread on their coat of arms!

The Asaf Jahi Flag, the official flag of the princely state of Hyderabad. The round circle in the middle represents the kulcha while the colour yellow, represents the yellow cloth in which the kulchas were offered.

The Nizams of Hyderabad were renowned all over the world for their wealth and power. Once upon a time, their mighty empire stretched for Khandesh in the north to Travancore in the south.The wealth was famous over seven seas, even finding them a mention on the cover of the “TIME Magazine”. So the question is, while other Indian princes as tigers, have the humble kulcha as their emblem?. lions and even the mythological Gandha berundha (Mysore) , why did the mighty Nizams not have some thing as impressive?

The Coat of Arms of the Asaf Jahi dynasty of Hyderabad. The round circle in the middle represents the Kulcha.

To answer this question and to trace the story of the kulcha and the nizams, it is important to go back to the originals of the Asaf Jahi empire. The largest unit in the Mughal Empire was the Subah or a Province. The biggest Subah was the Subah-i-Dakhan or the province of Deccan. After the death of Auranzeb, the Mughal empire was in decline. The imperial court of Delhi was steeped in profligacy, debauchery and general state of dissoluteness. The old timers felt pained that the great imperial court and the “Mughalia sultanat” had sunk so low. One of these was Mir Qamruddin.

Mir Qamruddin, the first Nizam of Hyderabad, founder of the Asaf Jahi dynasty of Hyderabad. The man who ate the seven kulchas.

Mir Qamruddin was a old courtier in Delhi court and his family had served the Mughal emperors on high positions for many years. However, Mir Qamruddin was very unhappy about the state of affairs. According to his biographer, he grew to hate the "harlots and jesters" who were the Emperor's constant companions and greeted all great nobles of the realm with lewd gestures and offensive epithets. Nizam ul-Mulk's desire to restore the etiquette of the Court and the discipline of the State earned him few friends. Envious and malicious courtiers poisoned the mind of the Emperor against Mir Qamruddin.

Old wall painting of Khwaja Hazrat Nizamuddin Auliya, a renowned Sufi mystic of Delhi. The man who offered kulchas to Mir Qamruddin and then prophesized that one day he would be king. (The Hazrat Nizamuddin railway station in Delhi is named after him)

Mir Qamruddin was informed that he was appointed the “subedar-i-dakhan” or the governor of Deccan. He decided to take up the appointment and leave Delhi for good. Before leaving, he decided to meet his spiritual guide, the Sufi mystic Hazrat Nizamuddin Aulia. Hazrat Nizamuddin invited him for a meal and offered him kulchas tied in a yellow cloth. Mir Qamruddin apologized for his hunger, on which Hazrat said that he could eat as many kulchas as he wanted. Mir Qamruddin wolfed down seven kulchas. Hazrat Nizamuddin then blessed him and prophesized that one day he would be king and that his descendants would rule for seven generations.

This prophecy came to be true. Soon after Mir Qamruddin came to Deccan, Nadir Shah invaded and sacked Delhi. All vestiges of Mughal power were gone. Soon the Nizams, who were simply governors, declared their de facto independence from the Delhi court. As prophesized, seven generations of Nizams would rule of the biggest kingdom in India. The seventh Nizam, Nawab Sir Osman Ali Khan joined the Indian union after the Hyderabad police action by the Indian army. The eighth descendant, Mukarram Jah would only inherit the title but nothing else.

Kulcha still lives on, strong and proud. From its humble origins in the street corners of India, it is even available in supermarkets in UK and US like ASDA and Sainsburys. But I always wonder if Mir Qamruddin regretted eating only seven kulchas? Also, I don’t know if he was offered chole along with them, as I have no doubt that had those kulchas been offered with chole, Mir Qamruddin would have definitely eaten more!

By Akshay Chavan

Adolf Hitler’s Maybach and the Maharaja of Patiala

2009-12-13T00:25:00.000+05:30

This story encapsulates the story of almost every Indian royal family. A story of how priceless artefacts were acquired and how they were lost. A few years back, there was a controversy over the fate of a Mercedes car gifted by Adolf Hitler to the Rana of Nepal. Some claimed that the car was in the Narayanhiti palace while others claimed that it has been sold. The controversy also threw light on the other cars gifted by Hitler to Asian rulers. There were only 3 Asian rulers who got gifts from Adolf Hitler, first, the King Farouk of Egypt; second, the Rana of Nepal; and third Maharaja Bhupinder Singh of Patiala.

Adolf Hitler, the Fuhrer of Germany who gifted a Maybach to Maharaja Sir Bhupinder Singh of Patiala

Maharaja Bhupinder Singh of Patiala was a larger than life personality. His appetite for everything wine, women, jewels, sports etc was gargantuan. So were his travels. He was the personal friend of the Kings of England, Spain, Sweden, Norway and many others. As an important member of the Chamber of Princes, he carried a great deal of influence in India as well. Perhaps, it is this influence that Adolf Hitler was hoping to leverage. Hitler’s hordes were sweeping across Europe and he had grand plans for his thousand years Reich. This is the story of those times, of Hitler’s extraordinary gift to the Maharaja of Patiala.

Maharaja Sir Bhupinder Singh of Patiala, the man who was gifted Maybach by Adolf Hitler

The story of this gift is recounted by his grandson Raja Malvinder Singh in his book “The Automobiles of the Maharajas”. He says –

“My grandfather Maharaja Bhupinder Singh went to Germany in 1935 and asked to see Adolf Hitler who very reluctantly gave him 10 to 15 minutes. They got into conversation, one thing led to another and 15 minutes became 30 and then 60. The Fuehrer asked grandfather to stay on for lunch and then asked him to come back the next day and then a third day. On the third day, he gave him German weapons like Lignose, Walther and Luger pistols and a magnificent Maybach.

The fabled Hitler’ Maybach gifted to the Maharaja of Patiala, photographed outside the Patiala palace (Source: Team-bhp.com)

There were only six ever made of this type. The Maybach was a ceremonial vehicle – a huge monstrous car that used 12 Zepperlin engine so the size of the bonnet was enormous. It was a cream coloured drophead with maroon upholstery and the boot used to open with two jump seats for the retainers. It could seat the driver and one more at the front and three at the back because it was very wide. It also had foldup seats like the later Buicks and Cadillacs and foot rests for passengers. In those days, it used to do three miles a gallon.

This amazing vehicle had one “hot” cylinder. When you are cranking up 12 huge cylinders, the same engine that propelled the zeppelin, it drained any normal battery. So it had a series of batteries which used to crank up once to start off. If you switched it off say an hour later, eleven cylinder decompressed but one cylinder kept maximum compression so all you had to do was hit the switch without hitting the starter button. The moment you hit the switch, that one cylinder came thump down with it’s own compression and fired the other eleven without taking it off the battery. So all 12 came into use. Its only when you let it rest for 4 to 5 hours that hot cylinder lost its compression.”

The Moti Bagh Palace, residence of the royal family of Patiala know for its “Bathrooms like Ballrooms” in words of a contemporary writer, where the Maybach was kept till 1957

This extraordinary car was shipped to India and was kept that the vast garages of the Moti Bagh Palace at Patiala amongst the numerous other Patiala vehicles including 27 Rolls Royces! After Maharaja Bhupinder Singh died, he was succeeded by his son Maharaja Yadavindra Singh. In 1947, India became independent and cataclysmic changes soon followed in the princely states. Patiala was merged with other states to form the PEPSU (Patiala and East Punjab States Union). Like other princely families, Patiala royal family too sold off it’s vast possessions to adjust with the new times. Many things were simply gifted away, including the Hitler’s Maybach.

Maharaja Yadavindra Singh of Patiala (son of Maharaja Bhupinder Singh and father of ex Punjab CM Amarinder Singh), who gifted away the Maybach to his friend!

Raja Malvinder Singh recalls how the Maybach was lost to the Patiala family in 1957 –

“I think it was the only Maybach of its kind that survived the war. I was sitting one day in Patiala House Delhi reading a comic when my father walked in with Sardar Sukhjit Singh Majithia after a game of Golf. The ADC came and said that Sardar Satyajit Singh had come to see my father. I was minding my own business but listening to what they were saying. After a while Sardar Satyajit Singhs aid to my father “Sir, I have come to ask a favour of you. You have this Maybach which you have never used. Can I buy it from you? My father said “ I am not selling any cars, but if you want it as a gift, you can take it”.We had a Australian named Harvey who was in charge of the garages and Sardar Satyajit said “Sir, could you give it to me in writing as Harvey won’t give it to me”. So my father dictated a letter to stenographer, signed it and the next day Satyajit drove to Patiala and picked up the Maybach. He eventually sold it and it is now with a private collector in America and probably worth close to 5 million dollars. “

Thus, this part of national heritage was lost to this country for ever. Today, the only Maybach which is still in princely possession is the Kolhapur Maybach of the Chhatrapatis of Kolhapur, which is taken out every year for Dusshera procession. The controversy over the Hitler’s gift to the Rana of Nepal still continues .......

By Akshay Chavan

Maharaja Pratapsinh Gaekwad of Baroda’s Golden Pet Frog Cage

2009-11-09T20:53:00.001+05:30

Indian maharajas were quiet well known for their quirky creations and commissioned some spectacular pieces from well known European designer houses. Many of these creations have been documented in the book “Made for Maharajas” by Amin Jaffar. Maharaja Sir Pratapsinhrao Gaekwad of Baroda was one such prince. Author John Lord of the book “The Maharajahs” referred to him as “the last of the big spenders”. He commissioned some of the most fabulous pieces of jewellery as well as some fabulous articles for daily use.

The delicately crafted golden cage for the frog of Maharaja Pratapsinh Gaekwad of Baroda made by famous jewellers Van Cleef and Arpels. After the frog died, the cage was modified with two lovebirds carved out of emeralds.

In the year 1935, Maharaja Pratapsinh Gaekwad ordered a gold bird cage from the Van Cleef and Arpels, the famous European jewellers. It was named the "House of Hortense", and in a little golden cage was a little golden ladder. The cage and the ladder were for the Maharaja's little pet frog who had the uncanny ability, when climbing and descending the rungs of the ladder, of indicating, by his position on the rungs, the changes in the weather. It was said that it would rain in Baroda when the royal frog was on top of the gold ladder! Later, the frog died and the cage was transformed into a birdcage, and the ladder was replaced with a swing to house two permanent “pets”: a pair of carved emerald lovebirds. This exquisite work of art was auctioned by Christie’s recently. The cost of this object’d art was $100,000-150,000.Looking at this exquisite piece, we all know what it means to be in a golden cage!

By Akshay Chavan

Carved Emeralds of the Maharajas of Darbhanga

2009-11-07T16:42:00.000+05:30

Raj Darbhanga had one of the finest collections of jewellery in India. As mentioned in my previous article, the successive Maharajas of Darbhanga scanned the world to acquire historic and finest pieces of jewellery. Jewellery and auctioneers from all over the globe would send their catalogs to Darbhanga anticipation sale of their jewellery. Even today, Maharajadhiraj Kameshwar Singh Kalyani Foundation has catalogs of jewellery sent across from various jewellers including an exceptional collection of photos of jewels of the Czars of Russia.

The Great Moghul emerald belonging to Maharajas of Darbhanga. The largest carved emerald in the world.

While the jewels have long gone, the photos of these gems still remain. Jewels of many Maharajas keep coming up for auctions. U Two of the most famous craved emeralds from the Darbhanga collection have come up for auction and hence we look at the craved emeralds of Raj Darbhanga. Unlike in the west, where a historic value of any piece of jewellery is hyped up (to increase it’s bid price), in India people go to great lengths to keep it a secret. As a result, historical references of a lot of famous Indian jewels have been wiped out. The only things which remain are some old photos. And as they say, photos never lie!

Taj Mahal Emerald: From Darbhanga Collection?

On 22nd October 2009, Christie’s in New York sold the “Taj Mahal Emerald”. The name of the emerald is derived from its intricately carved surface of lotus, poppy flowers, and other foliage that mirrors the decoration of the Taj Mahal. At the Paris Exhibition of 1925, the stone was one of three large Mughal emeralds that featured prominently in Cartier’s Collier Bérénice, a spectacular shoulder ornament that also boasted pearls, diamonds, and black enamel. Christie’s catalog describes the emerald as “The hexagonal-cut emerald, weighing approximately 141.13 carats, carved with stylized chrysanthemum, lotus and Mughal poppy flowers, within asymmetrical foliage, to the plain reverse and bevelled border, circa 1630-1650”. This emerald was sold for $ 7,94,500 or Rs. 3.7 crores!

The Taj Mahal Emerald sold by Christies recently

Very little is known of the past history of this historic emerald and where it came from. I too would not have thought much of this piece had I not seen particular photo on the website of Maharajadhiraj Kameshwar Singh Kalyani Foundation. In this photo, Maharaja Kameshwar Singh of Darbhanga and his brother Raja Bahadur Vishweshwar Singh appear standing wearing beautiful Darbhanga heirlooms standing with Rana Udaiban Singh of Dholpur. The photo is reproduced below with the kind permission of Maharajadhiraj Kameshwar Singh Kalyani Foundation.

A photo of Maharaja Sir Kameshwar Singh (left) with Maharana of Dholpur and on the right is Raja Bahadur Vishweshwar Singh of Darbhanga wearing a hexagonal emerald necklace.

Enlarged photo of Raja Bahadur Vishweshwar Singh of Darbhanga. The hexagonal emerald in the centrepiece of the necklace bears a strong resemblance to the Taj Mahal Emerald.

It is almost impossible to take your eyes off the fabulous art deco emerald necklace which Raja Bahadur Vishweswar Singh is wearing. The centrepiece of this necklace is a hexagonal emerald. I have a strong suspicion that this emerald centrepiece is indeed the Taj Mahal Emerald. I have not come across any other perfectly carved hexagonal emerald and these emeralds are extremely rare. The confirmation for this can only come out of the archives of the Darbhanga royal family, but till then, I would like to believe it so.

The Great Moghul Emerald

Another extraordinary emerald in the Darbhanga collection was the great Moghul emerald which is actually the largest carved Emerald in the world. This emerald is of Columbian origin. The origin of the emerald dates back to the period of Emperor Aurangzeb as revealed by the date inscribed on it - 1107 A.H. equivalent to 1695-96 A.D. It contains five lines of Shiite prayer written in calligraphy on one face, and an ornate flower carving on the other. It was sold in September of 2001 by Christie’s London auction house to a private buyer for more than 2.2 million dollars.

One side of the Great Moghul Emerald with Shiite prayer carved on it.

There is an interesting anecdote regarding the great Moghul emerald. Boris Lisanevich was a famous Calcutta hotelier and a friend to most Maharajas. He had heard about the famous Moghul Emerald and the Darbhanga jewels Boris for some time had been keen on seeing these jewels, and when one day he asked Maharaja Kameshwar Singh of Darbhanga if he could see them, the Maharaja just said, "Are you going to the Maharaja of Dumraon's party tonight?". Boris said yes. "Well then, I will bring some over," Kameshwar Singh promised.

Other side of the Great Moghul Emerald with floral designs

That evening Boris went to the party held in the Maharaja of Dumraon's house, located in a lonely and unlighted part of Alipore. What was his surprise when the Maharaja of Darbhanga turned up, not in his Rolls or escorted, but simply in a taxi. In his arms he carried four boxes. This entrance seemed even less understandable when Boris found out what the boxes contained. The drawing room in which all die guests were sitting was poorly lighted, but when the maharaja opened his boxes the room was actually brightened by the sparkling glow of magnificent, huge diamonds. On his turban the Maharaja wore the tremendous Mogul Emerald, a stone so large as to seem unreal, and as if this jewel alone were not enough, the Maharaja had mounted below the great emerald the large, perfect teardrop-shaped diamonds from the bottom of Marie Antoinette's necklace!

There are many such stories and more from the vaults of the Darbhanga family. While the jewels have all gone, these stories remain to awe us even today.

By Akshay Chavan

Maharajah of Rajpipla’s Favourite Recipe: The Rajpipla Chicken

2009-10-22T21:51:00.002+05:30

Indian maharajas were great connoisseurs of food. Every royal house had their own dynastic recipes which were family secrets and handed down from father to sons. Then there were cooks who were specially trained to prepare then. Each cook would master one dish! Unfortunately, today, the royal cuisine is not much in vogue because of two reasons, first because these recipes were not shares with anyone and second, that many of these recipes were too hard to make. Also, not many royal families have shared their royal recipes with the general public.

Maharaja Sir Vijaysinhji Chhatrasinhji of Rajpipla, a bon vivant and a gourmet cook

Now, thanks to the Rajpipla royal family, I can share with you the secret recipe of the Rajpipla Chicken, favourite dish of Maharaja Sir Vijaysinhji Chhatrasinhji of Rajpipla. A recipe that is easy to cook and does not take long to make. It also is a great Sunday treat or for serving your guests.

The banqueting hall of the Vijay Palace at Rajpipla, where the succulent Rajpipla chicken was served to distinguished royal guests.

The state of Rajpipla was surrounded by great jungles which housed the finest game. Maharaja Vijaysinhji would hold shikar camps for his guests. A game of hunting would be followed by a sumptuous feast of which the Rajpipla chicken would be an integral part. Mr Indra Vikram Singhji, the grandson of Maharaja Vijaysinhji has film reels dating back to 1930s which show the Maharaja cooking the famed Rajpipla Chicken in a jungle camp much to the delight of the ladies. This delicious chicken dish was integral part of the palace banquets for the visiting royal dignitaries. The banqueting halls of Vijay palace and Vadia palace would be filled with the delicious aroma of this succulent chicken dish. And now, we all shall enjoy the same.

THE RAJPIPLA CHICKEN

INGREDIENTS

1 kg chicken

3 onions, sliced finely

2 tablespoons tomato ketchup

2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce

2 egg yolks

250 grams curd

2 tablespoons sugar

1 tablespoon chilli powder

2 tablespoons butter

2 tablespoons ginger-garlic paste

1 tablespoon mustard paste

2 tablespoons cummin

Salt to taste

2 big potatoes

150 grams peas

METHOD

Fry onions till brown. Add ginger-garlic paste, chilli powder, salt and chicken. Fry well and pressure cook. When almost done, add the cubed potatoes and shelled peas. Cook till the chicken is tender.In a bowl, mix together Worcestershire sauce, ketchup, egg yolks, mustard, sugar and one tablespoon of oil and curd. Add butter to the chicken and then slowly pour in the mixture from the bowl. Stir and mix well. Lastly add cumin and simmer. Serve hot.

Please try out this royal recipe from the Palace of Rajpipla and give your feedback as to how did you like it. I am sure your guests would be as delighted as if they were guests of a Maharajah!

(Special thanks to Mr Indra Vikram Singhji, grandson of Maharaja Sir Vijaysinhji Chhatrasinhji of Rajpipla and author of the forthcoming book “A Maharaja’s Turf”)

By Akshay Chavan

Diwali with the Gaekwads of Baroda

2009-10-19T18:16:00.004+05:30

A special feature dedicated to Diwali. Diwali is the festival of lights, of wealth and of goddess Lakshmi. It is celebrated in the home of the smallest farmer to the biggest business magnet. But how did the sixth richest man in the world celebrate Diwali? In this article, we shall see the enticing description of how Diwali was celebrated by the Gaekwar/Gaekwad dynasty of Baroda in the year 1908. As per the Time magazine, the great ruler Sir Sayajirao Gaekwad was considered to be officially the sixth richest man in the world, the first being the Nizam. The visitors from far and wide came to see the magnificent royal court of Baroda. One such visitor was Rev Edward St Clair Weeden. Edward came to Baroda and stayed with the Gaekwads for a year. He wrote a book of his Baroda experiences titled “A Year with the Gaekwar of Baroda”. In this book he leaves behind a fascinating description of the Gaekwadi lifestyle during the turn of the century. His description of the royal Diwali with the Gaekwads is as follows:

The magnificent Laxmi Vilas Palace at Baroda, in its full splendour at night.

“We have just been celebrating one of the great Hindu festivals, the Diwali, or "feast of lamps," held in honour of Lakshmi, the goddess of wealth, so you will not be surprised to hear that it is a great day in Baroda. It began with a grand State function the removal of the Gadi, or throne, from the Old Palace to Lakshmi vilas. We were awakened in the morning by the boom of cannon firing a salute in the park, and while I was dressing Dr. Jadhav came for me, and we drove together to the Courts of Justice, a handsome building just outside the citygate and facing the great tank. Seats had been placed for us on the balcony in the shade, and we amused ourselves for some time watching the people surging along in the street below, pushed hither and thither by shouting policemen, whose frantic efforts to reduce them to some kind of order only made confusion worse confounded.

Other views of the Laxmi Vilas Palace in Baroda at night.

Presently the Maharana of Lunawada, who is a tributary Prince of the Gaekwar and is staying at the Nazarbag Palace, arrived in his carriage ; he is partially paralysed, and was helped to the seat next to mine by his two nephews, handsome men with black beards and grave, reserved manners. Soon afterwards the troops marched past, headed by the band escorting Maharaja to the Old Palace. He was driving with Shivajirao by his side, in an open landau drawn by eight lovely white Arab horses led by grooms, and was greeted by the crowd with the greatest enthusiasm. Kaka and a crowd of other nobles followed, some in carriages and others on foot, looking very brave in their flowing robes and jewelled swords.

Maharaja Sir Sayajirao Gaekwad of Baroda, host of the author Rev Edward St Clair Weeden.

The ceremonial at the Old Palace was very short, Maharaja taking his seat on the Gadi for a few minutes to receive homage and then driving home in the motor-car by a quiet road and leaving the procession to take care of itself. When it came back it was much larger, and there were half a dozen native bands besides the military band, all playing together and making a deafening noise ; behind the troops came seven of the State elephants in gorgeous trappings but no howdahs, their great golden bells sounding musically above the screeching pipes and roaring drums ; and then the Gadi itself, a gigantic bolster covered with a large cloth of gold, on a triumphal car beautifully decorated with flowers and drawn by ten milk-white bullocks draped from head to foot with magnificent embroideries.

The Durbar Hall in the Laxmi Vilas Palace at Baroda, where the golden throne of the Gaekwads was installed for the special Diwali Durbar.

It was a fine sight and very touching to see the vast crowds throw themselves flat on the ground as the sacred emblem of royalty passed by them. As soon as we could get away we drove back to the palace, and got there in time to see the procession again as it arrived there, looking rather lonely, as the public were not admitted within the park gates. Her Highness was watching it from a balcony and called out to me to ask if I had had a good view. The Gadi was placed in the small Durbar hall, and offerings were made to it by the Gaekwar, assisted by three Brahmins in their official robes of purple cloth, their bare breasts and faces painted with vermilion and their shaven heads bare except for a single lock of hair tied together in a short pigtail at the back. As it was a religious ceremony I was not allowed to go inside, but watched it from the balcony.

At breakfast the Gaekwar proposed that I should have an Indian dress made and dine at the banquet in the evening in Indian fashion. I jumped at the idea, and a message was sent to the tailor, who came to my rooms at two o'clock to measure me and submit patterns ; such a funny old man, very tall and thin and extremely deferential. At seven o'clock Sanka entered beaming, with a fine new dress all quite ready, exactly like the one Maharaja wears. It is quite a pleasure to put on the soft, light underclothing, and my only regret was that the beautiful waistcoat of peach-coloured silk with gold embroidery was covered by the long white outer garment, just showing faintly through the fine lawn. However there was a lovely jetab to match, about ten yards long, which Sanka wound round my head with great care.

A state banquet at the Laxmi Vilas Palace at Baroda.

When I was ready I went to show myself to the ladies, who were pleased to approve, and then made my way to the banqueting hall, which was looking quite lovely. It is a fine, well proportioned room, brilliantly lit by crystal chandeliers and with a number of old paintings by famous native artists hanging on the walls, illustrating stories from Hindu mythology. The floor had been specially decorated with a long oblong pattern made with coloured sands and gold and silver dust, and behind this large trays of solid silver were placed, one for each of the fifty guests. Silver bowls filled with flowers were placed between each tray, and sticks of burning incense smoked in slender silver holders. Behind the trays were small squares of inlaid wood, on which we took our seats like so many tailors. His Highness and Shivajirao sat at the top of the room and dined off trays of gold, with gold flagons, cups and water-bowls. At the other end of the room sat the Brahmins, still in their war-paint, so placed that their own servants could cook their own food on the verandah outside and bring it to them without passing any low-caste person such as myself.

A rare menu card of a Banquet held at the Makarpura Palace, the summer palace of Gaekwads. Note the enticing description of all the delicacies served, both in Marathi and in English.

I found that my tray was divided into a dozen little compartments, each containing a different kind of food, and the servants went busily about replenishing them from larger dishes. The food was excellent, and I was able to enjoy it, as I had been provided with spoon and fork, all the others using their fingers. Half-way through dinner Mr. Pluck brought me the wing of a partridge with cauliflower and salad, so I did very well. The conversation was of a general kind, the Gaekwar talking first to one then to another of his guests, and there were many jokes and much laughter. My legs ached frightfully towards the end, but I managed to sit through it all right, being an object of much polite curiosity, especially to the Brahmins, whose shrewd eyes I often found fixed upon me.

The meal ended with the customary ablutions, the number of antique silver vessels used again recalling the days of Solomon, and was followed by an open air concert by native singers and dancers, after which we went on to the terrace to watch the display of fireworks. It was quite magnificent, beautiful effects being produced by the reflection in the waters of the lake, the illuminated fountains, and the Bengal lights burning in the background among the trees.

The Nazarbaug Palace at Baroda where all the jewels of the Gaekwad family were kept. On the day of the Lakshmi Pujan, all the jewels were bought out of the vaults and worshipped in a traditional way.

The next morning I drove with the Gaekwar to the treasury, and watched him doing pooja, or worship, to the State jewels, which were all spread out on cushions, a blaze of barbaric splendour. We worship our wealth in a different way in England, but I think that their way is better ; it is certainly more dignified and honest. Later in the day Shivajirao went through a similiar ceremony at the palace with the family jewels, which are almost as numerous and magnificent as those in the State collection.

The Gold Ambari or Howdah of the Gaekwad family, believed to be made of 70 kg of pure gold. Maharaja of Baroda rode this Ambari on all state occasions.

In the afternoon there was a large garden-party down by the cricket-ground to which all the English people and native officials were invited to meet the Maharana of Lunawada. It was a very gay scene, a pageant of moving colour; the tennis-courts were full, and a number of English and Indian ladies were playing croquet. The acrobats gave a performance, and three great elephants in full dress took parties of the guests for a ride round the park. The band played lively tunes, and at intervals a company of pipers in Highland uniforms marched about at some distance, playing Scottish airs on their bagpipes. Of all the British customs introduced by the Gaekwar, I think the pipers are the most successful. They are much better than the band, which is not quite up to the mark, probably because the music appeals to them more. Ices and other delicious refreshments were served in a marquee and several other smaller tents gay with flags, and as it grew dark the trees were illuminated with coloured lights and Japanese lanterns.

An old lithograph dated 1870 showing Sir Sayajirao Gaekwad’s predecessor Maharaja Khanderao Gaekwad in a Diwali procession on the Gold Ambari.( Note the sheer size of the state elephant)

At dinner Maharaja asked me if I would like to go with him to Bombay that evening and see the illuminations there, and orders were sent to Sanka to get my luggage ready. We spent the evening in the Maharani's drawing-room, listening to a performance on stringed instruments by three men who are evidently great artists. I had not realized before what Indian music could be; it was indescribably beautiful, plaintive melodies, so soft as to be at times almost inaudible, floating above a gentle murmur of chromatic accompaniment. Quarter-tones were freely used, and probably other still smaller intervals which my ear, trained only to our Western scales, failed to detect. It was a delightful evening, and we were sorry when we heard that the car was waiting to take Maharaja and myself to the train. We drove across the park to the private station and then to Bombay.”

This is the enticing narrative of Rev Edward St Clair Weeden giving us a rare glimpse of customs and traditions of an early 20th century Indian court. Rev Edward St Clair Weeden went back to England but has left his memories for all of us to read and enjoy.

By Akshay Chavan

The Aghori Tandaav Ganpati: A True Tale of Horror

2009-10-13T10:58:00.006+05:30

Before I begin this tale of horror, I wish to make a disclaimer. All the names, characters, places and incidents are real and any resemblance to actual persons living or dead, events or locales is purely intentional. It is up to you, if you wish to believe this tale or not. But the truth remains that a cursed statue of Aghori Tandaav Ganpati does exist and it has shown its malevolent effect though ages and played a havoc on lives of all its owners. However, this is not a tattle tale or hearsay which I narrate. There are several historical sources and references which corroborate this true tale of horror. Those who wish to verify this tale can refer to –

1. Peshwe Gharanyacha Itihas (History of Peshwa Dynasty) by Dr Pramod Oak, page 337

2. Bharat Itihas Sanshodhan Madal Papers Vol (28 ) : Chapter 1-2

3. Kesari newspaper articles on 26th March 1978 and on 9th July 1978

The Aghori sect and Aghori tantriks

Before we proceed with the tale, let us brief look into what is an Aghori sect and their supernatural practices. The Aghori is an Hindu sect which is believed to be an off shoot of the Kapalika order in the 14th century. The Aghori tantriks are worshippers of Shiva as Lord Bhairava. They indulge in all forms of extreme ritual worship practices like cannibalism, consumption of alcohol and opium, residing in cremation grounds, black magic as well as worshipping in haunted places.

An image of an Aghori Tantrik

Aghori tantriks go in search of the powers and try to gain it by all means. They also are known to ritual worship using a corpse at an altar to invoke the mother goddess in her form as Smashan Tara (Tara of the Cremation Grounds).The Aghori tantriks are notorious their alcoholic and cannibalistic rituals. The corpses pulled from a river or obtained from cremation grounds, are consumed both raw and cooked on open flame, as the Aghoris believe that what others consider a "dead man" is, in fact, nothing but a natural matter devoid of the life force it once contained. For Aghoris, nothing is profane or separate from God. In fact, a burial ground or a haunted house is a preferred place of “sadhana” or worship for an Aghori tantric.

The Aghori Tandaav Ganpati , the Peshwas and the Dance of Death

The cursed and evil statue in this tale, the Aghori Tanddav Ganpati was created sometime after 1765 AD. Its origins can be traced to the war of succession in the Peshwa family. Peshwa Sawai Madhavrao was on the throne and was seriously ill. The doctors had stated that he did not have long to live. His uncle, Raghunathrao wanted the throne for himself and was just waiting for his nephew’s death. To ensure that his nephew did not survive, he took help of an Aghori Tantrik named Kotrakar Guruji” who hailed from Mysore. This Tantrik has this idol made of Ganpati doing a “tanddan nritya”, the “Dance of Death”. It was made of “Panchadhatu”, an alloy of five metals and was a one and a half foot in height. It is said that anyone who came in contact with this Aghori statue met a terrible end.

The Shaniwarwada, the Palace of the Peshwas where the evil Aghori Tandaav Ganpati statue was worshipped by Raghunathrao Peshwa.

The most chilling victims of this statue was Peshwa Narayanrao, the younger brother of Sawai Madhavrao who had succeeded him. Angered by this Raghunathrao and his wife Anandibai plotted his murder. On their instructions, a group of assassins entered the Shaniwarwada to kill Narayanrao. The young lad ran to his uncle, Raghunathrao’s chambers screaming “Kaka mala vachva” (Uncle! Please save me!). At this time, Raghunathrao was worshipping this cursed statue with the Tantrik. As Narayanrao entered the room, he was hacked to pieces by the assassins. It is said that this statue was completely covered in blood of the dead Peshwa. The statue had claimed its first “Bali” (sacrifice) and more such victims were to follow.

The Journey of the evil statue

The murder of his nephew did not do Raghunathrao any good. His own people turned against him, and he had to flee Pune. Soon he became a fugitive and died of a prolonged painful illness.

A palace retainer named Shedanikar stole the idol from Raghunathrao and installed in under a peepul tree in the village of Shedani near Pune. Over time, the idol moved to Chinchwad, Wai and finally in a home of a Brahmin in Satara. All its owners as well as their descendants were known to die a slow and painful death from illness and insanity. The Brahmin from Satara suffered so badly that he decided to get rid of the idol and threw it in a large abandoned well behind his house. There is lay forgotten for 50-60 years. However, as in horror movies, these objects never disappear for ever.

Around 60 years later a famous sanyasi in the Satara town known as Godbole Shastri (better known as Swami Swachandanand) saw this cursed Aghori Tandaav Ganpati in his dreams. He requested his disciple Mr Wamanrao Kamat to look for it. After a few investigations, Mr Kamat came to know of its cursed history. He also came to know that that Brahmin (who had thrown the statue in the well) had died a horrible death. As a result, Mr Kamat began to delay and avoid his quest for the statue. However, Gobole Shastri started getting sightings in his dreams in which he saw that idol everyday begging to be released. After a lot of persuasion, Mr Kamat took the statue out of the well. He installed the statue in his home and worshipped it every day.

An image of Ganpati doing the Taandav nritya or the “dance of death” (Please note this is not the original evil statue but just a representation of how the jinxed object may look like).

The jinxed idol made the Kamat family its next victims. Slowly all the family members died a terrible death. Mr Kamat too died a slow and painful death in 1937. Since his entire family had died, one of his distant relatives moved this cursed idol from the puja room into an underground chamber. In 1946, Mrs Chiplunkar, a distant cousin of Mr Kamat took the statue in her possession. She too died a slowly as a paralytic. Mr Moghe, a renowned antique collector from Bombay, heard of this historic statue and wanted to acquire it. He requested his friend Mr D S Bapat of Pune to acquire this statue from Mrs Chiplunkar in Satara. Mr Bapat requested his friend Mr Sontakke to take this idol with him to Pune. Mr Sontakke did not wish to travel to Bombay at night and so took the idol home, so that he could start his journey the next morning. As soon as he got the idol home, his wife, Mrs Sontakke got excruciating pains in her stomach which continued the whole night. The next morning, as Mr Sontakke left with the jinxed statue, the pain suddenly stopped. Sadly, Mrs Sontakke could never bear the children again.

Mr Moghe, the antique collector was the next victim of this jinxed idol. His son soon became mentally ill and had to be consigned in mental asylum. Mr Moghe lost all his money and became bankrupt. Mr Moghe had a friend named Mr Keshavram Ayyengar. He handed over the infamous statue to Mr Ayyengar and asked him to destroy it. Mr Ayyengar felt that such an evil object had to be destroyed in a proper holy manner. He took the statue to the Shankaracharya of Kanchi , one of the holiest priests of Hindu religion. The Shankaracharya had one look at the statue and asked Ayyengar to take away the evil statue away as soon as possible as he did not want it anywhere near the sacred place. Mr Ayyengar went back to Madras with a heavy heard. As soon as he reached Madras, he heard the news that his wife had died and his son had turned mad. Sometime in 1960s, Mr Ayyengar donated the evil state to Shankar Mutt at Thambu Chetty Street in Madras. This is the last known location of this statue

Last Known Location of the evil Aghori Tandaav Ganpati statue (as per the book: Peshwe Gharanyacha Itihas by Dr. Pramod Oak):

Sri Sankara Math (A branch of Sri Kanchi Kamakoti Peetam)

Thambu Chetty Street, George Town

Chennai – 600 001

Nothing more is known of this evil Aghori Tandaav Ganpati statue after that. When I first heard of the story, I was quiet tempted to find out more to see if the Math in Chennai still has the statue. But despite being a rationalist, I have neither the slightest will nor the slightest intention of being its next victim. As they say, it’s better to be safe than sorry. But if anyone of you wishes to find out more of this evil Aghori statue, please go ahead and keep us all informed. But at your own peril........

By Akshay Chavan

The Great Robbery on Hill of Parvati

2009-10-03T23:06:00.011+05:30

The date was 30th September, 1932. Rao Bahadur Vaidya woke up to a fine morning. He looked out of the window of his palatial Wada (Mansion) in one of the inner Peths (Localities) of Pune and saw the sun shine brightly over the Hill of Parvati. The Dev Deveshwar temple on the top of the Hill sparkled like a crown. Like other denizens of Pune, he too completed his morning rituals and sat down for his daily puja. Suddenly, he heard a big commotion on the streets outside. He rushed out to see what it was all about. The town crier was shouting out something. On hearing the news, Rao Bahadur Vadiya froze. He couldn’t believe what he had just heard. There had been a sensational robbery at the Dev Deveshwar Temple on the Parvati Hill. The historic and holy gold idols of Parvati and Ganesh had been stolen from the temple!

The bronze replicas of the solid gold idols of Parvati and Ganesh stolen from the Dev Deveshwar Temple in 1932.

A strong wave of anger and outrage swept over the city in Pune. From the farmers and petty shopkeepers to the opulent Wadas of Rasta peth, everyone was talking about nothing but this heist. Even the Governor of Bombay had to take notice. Everyone felt that the pride or “Swabhimaan” of Pune had been attacked. This was second such incident, after the destruction of the Shaniwar Wada in a mysterious fire which people felt was an insidious attempt by the British to wipe out Pune’s glorious past. To understand the importance of the Parvati temple and this robbery to the residents of Pune, it is very important to go back into time.

An old photo of the Dev Deveshwar Temple on the Parvati Hill.

During the 18th and 19th Century, Pune was the capital of the mighty Maratha Empire, ruled over by the Peshwas. The Peshwa dynasty embellished Pune with several palaces, mansions, markets and temples. The two of the most important temples built during the Peshwa era were the temples at Sarasbaug and the temple on the Parvati Hill. Peshwa Balaji Bajirao established the temple of Parvati in 1749.The legend has it that Rani Kashibai, the mother of the Peshwa Balaji Bajirao was suffering from a foot ailment. Once she saw a small temple on a lovely hill on the outskirts of Pune. She promised the Goddess that she would build a magnificent temple if her ailment was cured and by miracle it was! To keep his mother’s promise, Peshwa Balaji Bajirao, built a temple to goddess Parvati as well as Lord Mahadev (Shiva), the family deity of the Peshwas.

Another old photo of the Dev Deveshwar Temple on the Parvati Hill.

There are some historical sources which give a brief description consecration of the Parvati temple. D.B Parasnis in his book “Poona in the bygone days” states that the one the temple building was built the religious activities and various havans and pujas began from 7th April 1749 and continued till the idols were installed on 11th April 1749. The most spectacular ceremony took place when the idols were installed. There was a “Kalash” puja done when the “Kalash” made of 1200 tolas of solid gold was installed on the temple. The entire Pune court turned up in their finery to witness this ceremony. There was classical music and nagadas, temple dancers and elephants. The ceremony was one of the grandest Pune city had ever witnesses.

The piece de resistance were the beautiful idols of Shiva, his wife Parvati and his son Ganesh. The idol of Shiva was made of solid silver as white is considered to be the favourite colour of Shiva. The idols of Ganesh and Parvati were made of solid gold. The weight of the Ganpati and Parvati idols was 686 tolas (6.86 Kg) and 1246 tolas (12.46 kg) of solid gold. The idol of Shiva was made of 6734 tolas (67.34 kg) of solid silver. The jewellery of these deities was made of precious stones carved into the body of the idols. Their eyes were made of finest rubies. The idols also wore anklets and cummerbunds made of purest diamonds. There were considered to be one of the most beautiful gold statues in India and their fame spread all over the Maratha Empire.

Sinhagad Fort on outskirts of Pune where Peshwas kept their jewellery for safe keeping. In 1817, the idols were moved here during the Third Anglo-Maratha war.

These two exquisite idols had originally been gifted to the Peshwas by the Chhatrapatis of Tanjore and hence were considered to be a part of the personal treasury of the Peshwas. In the times of war, these idols used to be taken to Sinhagad fort along with the rest of the Peshwa jewellery for safekeeping. Even when kept in Sinhagad, these idols would be worshipped with all the rituals and tradition associated with them. In 1817, the third Anglo-Maratha war broke out. A victorious British army was marching on Pune. Like other times of war, Peshwa Bajirao sent these idols long with his jewellery to Sinhagad for safekeeping on 10th November, 1817. Soon on 3rd March 1818, Sinhagad was caputered by the British and these idols with rest of the jewellery went into the British possession. Fortunately, the British restored it back to the temple on the Parvati hill.

The Dev Deveshwar Temple on the Parvati Hill as it looks today.

Knowing that he would never have to go into permanent exile, Peshwa Bajirao created a trust of the temples of Parvati and Saras Baug. It is this trust which managed the running of these temples following the abolition of the Peshwa rule. Slowly following the destruction of Shaniwarwada in a mysterious fire, it was the Parvati temple which symbolised to the Punekars their vanishing lifestyle and a vanished empire. That is, till the sensational heist of 1932.

As the Pune city erupted in outrage, the newspapers gave a voice to people’s anguish. The popular Marathi newspaper “SAKAAL” (Which exists to this day) carried a series of news articles in this regard. These articles have been microfilmed to historical research. Following is the translation of that news article into English, as it is of great historical and social significance to the city of Pune:

Sakaal Newspaper – 1st October 1932
“Today morning, when the pujari of Shri Dev Deveshwar Temple went into the garbha (Sanctum Sanctorum) of the mandir, he noticed that the gold idols of Parvati and Ganesh have been stolen. The idol of Parvati is made of 1200 tolas of gold while idol of Ganesh is made of 700 tolas of gold. These idols are almost 175 years old (In the year 1932-author).

The main gate of the Dev Deveshwar Temple where 4 guards were sleeping on the night of the robbery!

Yesterday evening, after sunset, the main gate of the temple was closed. At night, all other gates of the temple were closed too. For the special protection of the idols, a retired Jamadar had been specially appointed who was on duty. In addition, there were four guards present inside the temple complex. Despite this, the theft took place at night. On the left side of the temple is a small window. The thieves cleverly dismantled the iron bars on this window. They then appeared to have broken into the sanctum sanctorum and stolen the idols.

Despite all the security, how did the thieves break into the temple and manage to run away with such heavy idols (12 kg and 7 kgs each) without guards even having a slightest hint is a big mystery. The police have stated that the matters are under investigation. Sadly, this is the second such instance of such a sensational robbery in a temple. In a similar such theft two years ago (In 1930), thieves broke into the Tulja Bhawani Temple at Pratapgad and made off with precious and historic jewellery with 1.5 Lakhs (Almost 1.5 crore today! – author). In the investigations in that case, it was found that the thieves had carefully studied the security arrangements on the fort before committing their theft.

Further investigations reveal that the theft was noticed when the pujari opened the temple to bathe the gods. The wooden window on the north had been drilled with one inch holes at four places and thereby dismantled it. It is suspected that thieves were more than one. Yesterday night, four guards were sleeping on the south side. The weight of both the idols is said to be 25 seers and are reputed to be worth Rs. 50,000.

There was similar such theft when the gold rudraksh necklace of the idol of Shiva was stolen but the culprits were caught soon. In the past six years, the number of guards has been reduced from 30 to just seven. Currently, Engineer Annasaheb Vartak is the chief trustee of the trust while other trustees are Sardar Abasaheb Muzumdar, Engineer Agashe, Mr R.S Dhamdhere, Mr Gopalrao Patwardhan and Rao Bahadur Omkar. At 3 in the afternoon, Division Police DSP I.R Deshmukh prepared a first information report of the theft. There are no suspects, but investigations are on.”

Sadly, the investigations went on and on. But the culprits were never caught. Despondent and sad, Rao Bahadur Vaidya decided to take matters into his own hands. He solicited donations from the resident of Pune and the citizens responded with enthusiasm. In 1936, with the money collected, Rao Bahadur Vaidya had bronze replicas of the original gold statues installed in a solemn ceremony. All the religious rituals continued as usual. Even today, these two bronze idols are worshipped in the temple on the Parvati hill.

The hill of Parvati, towering over the Pune city.

Today, the Hill of Parvati stands tall over the city of Pune, looking over the benevolent city. However, there is a new theft which has taken place in recent years. When the author first visited the Parvati temple, he was stuck by the sheer beauty of the place surrounded by the miles and miles of lush greenery and trees, as a part of a protected urban forest. Since then, “the great Indian land robbery” has taken place, as in every Indian city. During a recent visit, the author was shocked to see that the greenery had completely disappeared and replaced with ugly buildings and shopping complexes. Apparently, Pune Corporation in connivance with the land mafia changed the land use rules and handed over this lush urban forest to builders and corrupt politicians. Will a new age Rao Bahadur Vaidya come to rescue of the Pune city? I sincerely hope so.

By Akshay Chavan

Asuras of Today: The Bloodline of Mahishasura

2009-09-22T22:42:00.012+05:30

Navratri commemorates the nine day battle between Goddess Durga and the Asuras led by Mahishasura. This victory of good over evil is celebrated in different parts of the country with religious fervour. But I told you, that there are Asuras living amongst us, who consider themselves to be descendants of Mahishasura and consider Navratri as a period of deep mourning, what would your reaction be? You would say “Oh yes, you mean the corrupt politicians and businessmen are the real Asuras today, right?”

A 12th century miniature painting of Kashmiri School, showing a person captured by an Asura or an Asur.

No, an amazing fact is that there is a tribe of people who call themselves “Asuras” , consider themselves to be the descendants of Mahishasura, hate “Devas” for defeating him and consider Navratri as a period of mourning to remember the defeat of “Asuras” by “Devas”. A fascinating fact, which is truly a great example of the great anthropological diversity of India. Before we look at the Asuras of today, let us look at the Asuras in mythology, the historical origins and references to the Asuras, as well as the legend of Mahishasura.

Asuras in Mythology

A wall carving in Ankor Wat temple in Camboda, showing the power struggle between Devas and Asuras (Sagar Manthan)

A spectacular series of statues of Asuras pulling the giant serpent during Sagar Manthan, found in Ankor Thom temple, in Cambodia.

In the popular culture today, Asuras are often confused with “Rakshas” (Demons). However, this was not always so. Once upon a time, Asuras were not considered demons but in fact power seeking deities. In the early Hinduism, there were two classes of deities, Devas and Asuras. Infact, in those times, Indra and Varun were considered to be Asuras. Asuras were powerful deities who were opposed to gods. Sometimes, they were more powerful than the Devas and sometimes worked with them together to achieve a common goal. As per the Hindu Puranas, Asuras and Devas are step sons of Rishi Kashyap. Curiously, it is only in the later stages of Hinduism that the Asuras began to be portrayed at demons or evil being. So what happened? Why did the Asuras go from being a kind of a deity to becoming demons or rakshas?

The historical theory behind the split of Asuras and Devas

The answer to this question lies in time far back in millennia, when wandering hordes of Aryans travelled through large parts of Asia. It is believed that Aryans came to India through Central Asia in the Bronze Age. There is a theory among historians explaining the Asuras and Devas divide to the split between the Indian Aryans and the Iranian Aryans. This theory is corroborated by the fact that in old-Iranian religion as well as Zoroastrianism, the term Asura corresponds to the Zoroastrian word “Ahura”. In Zoroastrianism, Asuras or “Ahuras” are supreme godly beings while Devas or “Daevas” are demonic. Prophet Zoroaster propagated the worship of Ahura Mazda while the first Zoroastrian Gatha condemns Daevas for their ill treatment of cows.

An image of Ahura Mazda, the most powerful and true angle of Zoroastrians and Old Iranians.

Based on this opposing definitions of Devas and Asuras in Indian and Iranian religions, Historian theorise that following may have happened. At a date lost in history, the single tribe of Aryans of Central Asia split into two parts. One tribe settled down in Iran and the other tribe of Aryans came to India. Then, after some time differences arose between them and they had a fight. As a result, on one hand, the Iranians demonised the Devas and considered Ahuras godly, while on other hand, the Indians demonised the Asuras and considered Devas godly.

An ancient Zoroastrian sculpture of “Daevas”, demonic creatures as per the Zoroastrian Gathas.

Another hypothesis is that the opposition between Asuras and Devas is rooted in Indo-Iranian Aryans social structure. At important festivals, it is postulated that two clans or sub-tribes would compete in making the most perfect ritual offering to the gods, seeking to outdo their peers in beauty of hymns sung, richness of offerings, and minute observance of traditional formulae. One clan would sacrifice to Devas, the other to the Asuras. When Aryan society grew and split between Indian Aryans and Iranian Aryans, the two resulting societies slowly forgot the old agonistic context, and eventually chose one set of deities over the other. Thus, what we now know is that for Indian Aryans, it was Devas = good and Asuras = Bad while for Iranian Aryans, it was the other way round. Now let us look at the legend of Mahishasura.

Legend of Mahishasura

The legend of Mahishasura is believed to have been emerged in the later part of Vedic religion when the Asuras were demonised. The story of Mahishasura is as follows. Mahishasura was an Asura. His father Rambha was the king of Asuras who fell in love with a water buffalo. Mahishasura was a product of this union. As a result, he was able to change between human and buffalo form at will. He was a great disciple of Brahma and after great penance was granted a boon that neither men nor gods would be able to defeat him.

A very popular image of Mahishasura, the most powerful Asura, whom no god or man could defeat. A statue which stands outside the Chamundeshwari Temple in Mysore.

After this, he started terrorising heaven and earth. He invaded Heaven and drove Indra and all the Devas away from Heaven. Devas went into a conclave to decide what is to be done as neither men nor gods could defeat him. They created his nemesis in a form of a young woman called Durga. She combined the power of all gods in a beautiful form of “Shakti”. The goddess then attacked Mahishasura's empire, and after nine days of fighting, during which Mahishasura's army was decimated, she finally killed him on the tenth day of the waxing moon. Durga is therefore called Mahishasuramardini the destroyer of Mahishasura. The event is celebrated in various versions as Durga Puja in Bengal and Orissa, and as Dussehra and Navratri in other parts of India, celebrating this victory of good over evil. But not by everyone though!

The Asuras of Today

It may amaze most people to know that there is a tribe called the Asur Tribe who consider themselves to be kinsmen of Mahishasura and do not worship Devas as they conspired to defeat him. For them, Navratri is a period of Mourning and a very sad time. The Asur Tribe is mainly predominant in the Chhota Nagpur plateau of Jharkhand state. They are found in the districts of Gumla, Lohardaga, Palamu and Latehar of the Jharkhand state. The modern Asur tribe is divided into three sub-tribal divisions, namely Bir (Kol) Asur, Birjia Asur and Agaria Asur. By profession, Asurs are traditionally Iron smelters.

A single chambered memorial megalith built by the Asur tribe in 800 BC, situated in Chitarpur village of Ramgarh district (A megalithic monument similar to Stonehenge in UK)

For the followers of the bloodline of Mahishasura, Dusshera is the darkest period of the year. The Asur tribes do not believe in Devas as they feel that Devas conspired to defeat Mahishasura. To this day, they resent the Devas. They believe that Devas are power hungry and can do no good to anyone. The Asurs worship their ancestors or nature offering them haria (rice beer) and chicken on a sacred day. While rest of the country celebrates Durga Puja and Navratri, the Asurs spread across North Bengal and Jharkhand go into a deep period of mourning. During this time, the elders stay even away from sunlight. Windows are barred and all activities done only after sunset.

A very old photo of the Asur Tribe.

Asurs possess very strong and powerful body structure as well great physical strength. This helps them in their traditional occupation of Iron smelting. The decorative objects of Iron made by them are in a great demand by tourists. They follow peculiar food habits, eating eat all kinds of flesh, including that of snakes, dogs, cats, crows and vultures. But they live in clean and hygienic houses lined with cow dung without the traditional rice paste motifs found in most villages in north India. The Asur tribe has tried to preserve their traditions in this rapidly changing and assimilating world.

As the process of Globalization gathers pace, the iron smelting, the traditional occupation of the Asurs has become unviable thereby forcing them to migrate to cities. Also, more educated Asurs are giving up their traditions to integrate into the mainstream. The Asurs or Asuras have preserved their traditions for millennia, but will they be able to do the same for the next millennia? Only time will tell. All I can say is that the survival of this unique tribe, still true to their beliefs after thousands of years, is truly a tribute to the cultural diversity of India. So next time when you think that Asuras are Demons or Rakshas, found only in Mythology, think again! Some of them could be standing right next to you.

By Akshay Chavan

KKahani Shaadi Ki : Of the Marriage of Rajmata Vijayaraje Scindia

2009-09-18T22:26:00.017+05:30

This story fits more into a plot of a popular Ekta Kapoor’s K-soap (hence named KKahani Shaadi Ki ) rather than a part of serious history. A story typical of an early 20th century Indian royal court, full of intrigues, of scheming courtiers and broken engagement, of beautiful brides and scheming mother-in-laws. But since it deals with one of India’s most enigmatic royals and the beloved Matriarch of the powerful BJP and the Sangh Parivar, this story needs to be told with all the composing drama and twists. I had always wondered as to why did Maharaja Jiwajirao Scindia marry a non-Maratha commoner, a very uncommon thing. Not many people are aware, that Rajmata Vijayaraje Scindia was a very highly educated and smart commoner and daughter of a Civil servant in Uttar Pradesh (then United Provinces. In the process of finding an answer, I uncovered the story of this “soap opera” wedding.

Maharaja Sir Jiwajirao Scindia of Gwalior (Source: Royalark)

Maharaja Jiwajirao Scindia and Maharani Vijayaraje Scindia belonged to the great and distinguished Scindia dynasty of Gwalior. They were also the founders of a new political dynasty that dominates the political landscape of much of central India to this day. Their children Madhavrao Scindia, Vasundhararaje Scindia, Yashodhararaje Scindia as well as their grand children are prominent leaders across the political spectrum. The story of this wedding is as riveting as it gets. And so we begin:

Maharaja Jiwajirao Scindia was the only son of Maharaja Sir Madhav Rao Scindia and his second wife Maharani Gajraraje Scindia. Maharaja Madhav Rao Scindia had died when Jiwajirao was only nine. The senior Maharani Sakhyaraje and after her death, junior Maharani Gajraraje Scindia served as regents on behalf of young Jiwajirao. In 1934, on reaching majority, Maharaja Jiwajirao Scindia took over the reins of one of the richest and most powerful kingdoms in India.

Maharani Gayatri Devi of Jaipur presenting a Polo trophy to Maharaja Jiwajirao Scindia.

The question of his marriage to a suitable princess of a equal rank soon arose. Maharaja Jiwajirao Scindia was considered to be one of the most handsome and eligible princes in India, as a ruler of a wealthy 21 salute state. Traditionally, Scindias like other aristocratic Maratha families, married within their close knit Maratha community. All brides of the Scindias came from Maharashtra and other Maratha kingdoms. Jiwajirao’s mother Rajmata Gajraraje Scindia was from the aristocratic Rane clan of Sanquelim or Sankli in Goa. Her sisters were also married to other prominent Gwalior families like Sardar Angre, Sardar Shitole etc. The Gwalior Court was completely dominated by these big Maratha Sardars who ruled over mini kingdoms in their own right. These Sardars wanted Jiwajirao to marry one of their own and for this emissaries were sent to all Maratha states as far as Tanjore, to find a suitable bride for Jiwajirao.

Maharaja Sir Jiwajirao Scindia (The most eligible Maratha bachelor!) at a cocktail party in Calcutta with the Maharaja of Darbhanga.

In the winter of 1937, like many princes, the Scindias too went to Calcutta for the famed “Christmas season” comprising of a social whirl of cocktail parties, races, dog breeding championships, masquerades etc. For the season, the entire fashionable Indian society descended on Calcutta for months of gala extravaganza. The royal jet-set at Calcutta was dominated by royal Westernised and sophisticated houses of Tripura and Cooch Behar. At a party thrown at Tripura House at Ballygunge, Maharaja Jiwajirao Scindia met the stunningly beautiful, Princess Kamal Prabha, the sister of Maharaja of Tripura. Jiwajirao fell in love at first sight and resolved to marry her. The approval for marriage was readily given by the Maharaja of Tripura.

The Saas (Mother-in-law) in the Royal Drama, Rajmata Gajraraje Scindia

Much to the horror of Rajmata Gajraraje and the entire Maratha aristocracy, Jiwajirao announced his engagement to Kamal Prabha, a non Maratha. Lavish festivities took place in Gwalior and Tripura. A grand engagement was held at the “Chhoti Vishrani”, a mini palace in the Jai Vilas Palace complex followed by a lavish party at Tripura House at Calcutta. The wedding preparations were finalised and 11 trains were booked to take the Scindia baraat to Calcutta for the wedding. It promised to be a fairy tale wedding between a handsome prince and a beautiful princess. But as in Ekta Kapoor soap, this wedding was not to be. There was a twist in the tale!

Just as he was about to depart with the baraat for Calcutta, Maharaja Jiwajirao Scindia came to know that his mother, Rajmata Gajraraje, had threatened to embark on a fast unto death if this marriage went ahead. Plus, a group of Maratha Sardars had even complained to the Viceroy against this wedding. The Maharaja was under great pressure. Maharaja Jiwajirao Scindia had ascended the throne the same year and could not afford to alienate the entire Gwalior court. He had no choice but to call off the wedding which he did with a heavy heart. However, this did cause a lot of comment and gossip throughout India. Rajmata Vijayaraje Scindia in her autobiography remembers how unpopular Maharaja Jiwajirao Scindia was among all the girls, for agreeing to marry a girl and then calling of the engagement at the last minute.

When Jiwajirao had broken the engagement, he was deeply hurt by the attitude of his mother and the Gwalior Court. A hurt Jiwajirao resolved that he would not marry a Maratha girl at all. He asked his uncle Sardar Krishnajirao Mahadik to look for a girl from Nepal. Why did he choose a girl from Nepal is a big mystery (I have attempted to find an answer to this question as why did Jiwajirao want to marry a Nepali girl specifically, but have found no satisfactory answers). The only explanation seems to be that Jiwajirao wanted to assert himself in the court and hence did not want to wife to be from the same Maratha oligarchy. Sardar Krishnajirao Mahadik spent months in Nepal looking for a suitable girl but sadly there was no girl in Nepal deemed suitable for the reigning ruler of Gwalior. Sardar Mahadik came back empty handed. Jiwajirao Scindia slowly began to lose hope of ever finding a suitable girl of his choice.

Thakur Chandan Singh, a renowned journalist and writer who suggested the hand of his beloved niece Lekha Divyeshwari Devi for Maharaja Sir Jiwajirao Scindia.

The gossip and rumour of this bridal hunt was going around the court of Gwalior as well as other courts in India. Hearing this, Thakur Chandan Singh, estate manager of Sardar Angre of Gwalior wrote to the Maharaja saying that he had a niece Lekha Divyeshwari Devi, who was half Nepali, fair skinned, beautiful and well educated and asked if he would consider her for marriage. Thoughtfully, he also attached a photo of his niece. The Maharaja liked the girl he saw in the photo. It was decided that they would meet in Bombay.

But there was one big problem (Again a very Ekta Kapoorish twist!). By a very strange quirk of fate, Lekha has been shown for marriage to Prince Durjay Kishore Deb Burman, brother of Maharaja of Tripura and of Princess Kamal Prabha, ex-fiance of Maharaja Jiwajirao Scindia! Her marriage into the house of Tripura had been settled.So when the proposal from Gwalior came, Lekha family was a caught in a dilemma. There was no real comparison between THE Scindia of Gwalior and the brother of the Maharaja of Tripura. But if the Gwalior proposal failed, it could have affected Lekha’s marriage prospects. Also, Lekha had her own apprehensions about marrying the Maharaja of Gwalior. But Lekha’s family decided to take a chance and left for Bombay. However, this journey was taken in great secrecy.

The Jai Vilas Palace, The opulent home of the Scindias.

Sardar Krishnajirao Mahadik was waiting for them at the Victoria Terminus station from where they checked into the Taj Mahal Hotel at Bombay. Lekha met Maharaja Jiwajirao Scindia for the first time at the Harbour Bar in the Taj at Bombay. The year was 1942, and Lekha recalls seeing the British warships from the windows. There was very little conversation between the two as Lekha could not speak Marathi. The following day, they went to a Cinema and a dinner at the Samudra Mahal Palace of the Scindias at Worli. This was followed by a day at the races at Mahalaxmi Race Course in Bombay where they saw Maharaja Jiwajirao Scindia’ s horses win.

A very rare photo of the Scindia Wedding: The Guests gathered for the Royal wedding.

Soon after, Maharaja Jiwajirao Scindia informed his staff of his decision to marry Lekha. But Lekha and her family still did not know about Maharaja’s decision. As Lekha left the racecourse, she approached the royal car waiting for her. Captain Lad, ADC to Maharaja Jiwajirao Scindia, opened the door of the car for her and did a traditional low bent salute called the “Muzra” to her. A surprised Lekha protested and said ”Captain, you mustn’t do muzra to me” to which Captain replied “I must! To our Maharani!”. This is how Lekha’s family came to know of the fact the she was now chosen to be the next Maharani of Gwalior.

A very rare photo of the Scindia Wedding: The Royal baraat and the bridegroom (Maharaja) on the elephant.

Still, as twists in Ekta Kapoor’s soap never end, there was now another problem! That of Jiwajirao’s Mother, Rajmata Gajraraje and the sardars. Would the Gwalior court accept a commoner as their Maharani? If they had blocked his marriage to a Tripura princess to what chance did a half-Nepali daughter of a district collector stand. But Jiwajirao was determined not to let the history repeat itself. Jiwajirao strictly informed Lekha’s family that they were to keep this a top secret and not inform anyone. In Gwalior, Maharaja announced that he was getting marriage. But the catch was, nobody knew who the girl was. Dignitaries from all over India came for the wedding without knowing who the bride was! The identity of the bride was kept a complete secret from the Gwalior court as well as all the guests. It was revealed dramatically at the last moment.

Very rare photos of the Scindia Wedding: Maharaja Jiwajirao Scindia arriving for the “Pheras” ceremony.

Rajmata, who was upset by all this was sulking, was convinced by her courtiers and relatives to attend the wedding. So Rajmata Gajraraje did attend the wedding to give her blessings to the couple and perform the “Akshata” ceremony in which the bride and the bridegroom take seven “pheras” or rounds to the fire (Seven wows of marriage). After the wedding, Maharaja Jiwajirao Scindia brought his newlywed wife into the room where Rajmata Gajraraje was waiting. He untied the dupatta which is tied between the bride and bridegroom and left his newlywed bride into the room with the new mother in law.

A very rare photo of Scindia Wedding: The special durbar held to commemorate the royal wedding.

The atmosphere was tense as courtiers looked apprehensively between this first interaction between a “Saas” and a “Bahu”. (You can almost hear the soap opera music in the background!). Rajmata Gajraraje Scindia did not utter a word to her new daughter in law. She ordered that a car be brought to take her back to Jai Vilas palace and she rose to leave. The newlywed bride was flummoxed as to what to do but Lekha showed a great presence of mind. She picked up her husband’s dupatta with great respect and escorted the Rajmata to her car. She then respectfully touched her feet and bade her goodbye. This act of Lekha sent a very good impression among the royal ladies present there. They all felt that the new Maharani is kind and sensitive lady and will fit well into her “sasuraal.” This won her an approval of the Gwalior court.

The Usha Kiran Palace in Gwalior where Maharani Vijayaraje Scindia did her “Griha pravesh” (entry into the groom's house) as a Bahu (Daughter-in-law) of the Scindia family.

Lekha Divyeshwari Devi became Maharani Vijayaraje Scindia after her marriage. This is one of her very rare photos as a queen in younger days. After her husband’s death, she only wore white sarees as a devout Hindu widow.

As per Maratha tradition, Lekha was given a new name “Vijaya” which means “The victorious”. She henceforth was known as Vijayaraje Scindia. Over time, opposition to Vijayaraje mellowed over time. Vijayaraje Scindia was a kind and compassionate woman. After the merger of the states, she prevailed upon her husband to donate part of their wealth to the nation. After her husband’s death, the now “Rajmata” Vijayaraje Scindia took up politics and travelled length and breadth of India’s villages making great sacrifices. Her name is still revered in Gwalior and Madhya Pradesh today.

Photos of Rajmata Vijayaraje Scindia of Gwalior in her old age wearing her trademark white sari, as an orthodox Hindu widow. A revered icon and matriarch of the BJP, as Lekha eventually became.

Filmmaker Gulbahar Singh is making a movie on Rajmata’s life called “Ek thi Rani aisi bhi” where Rajmata’s character is played by Hema Malini and Jiwajirao’s by Vinod Khanna. Will Gulbahar Singh recreate the story of her soap operaish wedding? Or perhaps we should wait for Ekta Kapoor to do the honours? What do you think?

By Akshay Chavan

The Fabulous Cars of the Holkars of Indore

2009-09-09T21:33:00.021+05:30

Cars have always been a symbol of pomp and grandeur. Ever since cars first came to India, they have found big patrons in Indian royals. Like jewels, royals vied with each other to collect the lean machines. One of the most extraordinary collections of cars ever assembled was that of the ruling Holkar dynasty of Indore. The Holkar family was among the earliest families to drive cars in a time, when cars were a great novelty.In fact, Maharani Chandravatibai Holkar, the wife of Maharaja Tukojirao Holkar of Indore, was one of the first women drivers in India. The Maharajas of Indore owned and used a large collection of magnificent cars.

A stunning Alpha Romeo belonging to Maharaja Yeshwant Rao Holkar of Indore

It was Maharaja Yeshwant Rao Holkar, the son and successor of Maharaja Tukojirao Holkar who was a true connoisseur of automobiles and built up the most spectacular collection of cars in India. With the income from the highly fertile and industrialized kingdom of Indore at his disposal, Maharaja Yeshwantrao Holkar could order cars on “cost no issue” basis. With his deep understanding of the automobile, he knew exactly which car to buy, how the car’s line should flow and how the car’s body was to be fabricated. Due attention was paid to every detail and even door handles were specially designed. It is said that the Holkar cars were the only cars in India whose interiors were as impressive as exteriors.

Maharaja Yeshwant Rao Holkar of Indore, a great aesthete with an impeccable taste and a connoisseur of fine automobiles who assembled one of the most spectacular collection of cars in India.

All cars bought by Maharja Yeshwant Rao Holkar were designed in the spectacular art deco style. His collection of sleek and chic cars was famous not only in India but even Europe and United States. His magnificent collection of Bentleys, Alpha Romeos and Rolls Royces was maintained by a large retinue of staff. Holkars of Indore maintained sprawling establishments in Beverly Hills, Paris and the French Riviera. These cars would be shipped across continents for the “social seasons” where Maharaja Yeshwantrao Holkar and his Maharani hobnobbed with crème de la crème of the European society.

The Cars of Maharaja Yeshwant Rao Holkar

Throughout 1930s, Maharaja Yeshwant Rao Holkar bought a wide range of extraordinary cars. A description of these cars can be found in the book “Automobiles of the Maharajas” by Sharada Dwivedi and Manvendra Singh Barwani. This book mentions that in 1936, Maharaja yeshwant rao Holkar ordered 3 superb cars, a 4.5 litre Lagonda, an open two seater sports body on a super charged Duesenberg chassis and an aerofoil coupe Bentley, all finished in striking Holkar colours of sunglow orange and black. The maharaja who loved driving at high speeds , also owned a seven passenger 1931 type 41B Pierce Arrow with a phaeton body, a Bugatti in blue, a Delahaye, a J12 Hispano Suiza and three Alfa Romeos. In addition, he owned a luxurious and rare Figoni finished in cream which he brought to India in cooler and drier winter months but took back to United States in summer to prevent their deterioration during hot and humid months.
The Holkar Bentley, photographed in Delhi (Source: Team-BHP.com, Copyright with respective owners)

In 1954, Maharaja ordered an 2-door teardrop sports Bentley R type continental, which sported all Holkar features and was used only in USA. His favourite car was 4.5 litre 1936 Bentley, the last car which he bought from Gurney Nutting , finished in typical Holkar style with orange dials and flamboyant colours. In all, Maharaja owned six Bentleys. Overall, he owned around 40 to 60 cars.His extraordinary and rare collection was the envy of many a connoisseur of the automobile.

The Styling of the Royal Holkar Cars

Holkar collection is unique not only because of the model of the cars but also by the way they were styled. In almost all Holkar cars owned by Maharaja Yeshwant Rao Holkar, the unique coachwork was finished in black, with a special "Sun-Glow" orange sweeping boldly from the hood ornament, over the hood and the tops of the doors, onto the rear deck. Sun-Glow also graced the leather interior. The “Sun-Glow” colour was saffron or “bhagwa” the colour of the Marathas.

The Holkar owned Lagonda car (Note the "sun-glow" saffron and black design)

Another peculiar design feature was that all Holkar cars were fitted with a pair of running lights atop each front fender. This was so that through these colours the subjects would know that if the car passed them with red lights on, then the Maharaja was driving; and if blue, then the Maharani was at the wheel. This was because earlier if any royal car passed by after dark, everyone would salute the car looking at the red number plate. Maharaja realised that subjects were paying respects to an empty car. So to avoid any inconvenience to his subjects, Maharaja Yeshwant Rao Holkar introduced this feature.

The pair of lights found on all Holkar Cars, red to indicate when Maharaja was driving and blue when Maharani was driving.

Also, the Maharaja of Indore’s flag was not flown on radiator as customary but on windscreen. All Holkar cars including the Duesenberg had “HSC” number plates e.g “HSC-1” “HSC-3” etc which stood for “Holkar State Car”.

Another Alfa Romeo belonging to Maharaja of Indore, note the red number plate “HSC” which stands for “Holkar State Cars” (Source: Team-BHP.com)

Some Memories of the Maharaja and the Cars

There are a few memories and anecdotes which survive of the Maharaja Yeshwant Rao Holkar and his love for cars and driving. These are mentioned in the book “Automobiles of the Maharajas”. It is said that the Maharaja loved driving his cars at a fast speed both in India and abroad, where he often did record runs while driving from Ratlam to Indore. En route, the sport car he had chosen for the journey, would wait for him at Ratlam and then he would go non-stop, expertly covering distance of 90 miles flat in 60 mins. The inhabitants of every village on the way were informed beforehand so that they stayed off roads till he had passed by.

A stunning Mercedes Benz owned by the Holkar Family.

Also, Indore state had splendid game preserves to which Maharaja regularly drove in his sports cars. The Maharaja was generous to a fault. Old retainers recount a story of Maharaja Yeshwant Rao Holkar gifted a Bugatti to one of his shikaris (hunters). The car lay in shikari’s village under a tree!

The Maharajah Duesenberg
Of all the cars in the Holkar collection, the most spectacular and the most expensive was the fabled Maharajah Duesenberg. This was the most famous car in the Indore royal collection. This Duesenberg was the largest, the most expensive as well as the last Duesenberg ever made.

The Holkar Duesenberg, better known as the “Maharajah Duesenberg” comissioned by Maharaja Yeshwant Rao Holkar of Indore.

The Duesenberg lovingly known as "Duesy" was US based luxury automobile company active from 1913 to 1937, famous for its high-quality passenger cars and record-breaking roadsters. The Duseys found their patrons in the speed loving Jazz age of 1930 were it became very fashionable to drive sleek and fast cars. The Indian Princes, with their love for Rolls too fell in love with the Dusey. Maharaja Yeshwant Rao Holkar travelled extensively across Europe and it was on one of these trips that he ordered this car in 1931. Maharaja was just 28 years at the time and was on the throne for just a couple of years. It was shipped to India soon after. This car graced the royal garage at the Manik Bagh palace.

More photos of the “Maharajah Duesenberg”, the largest, the last and the most expensive Duesenberg ever made.

The Maharaja Duesenberg is something called a "Speedster Roadster" built on the model JN's 11-inch longer 153.5-inch wheelbase. The car is a model SJ's supercharged 320-BHP eight; it did 104 mph in second and topped out at 140. As mentioned previously,like other Holkar cars this car too was built on a cost-no-object basis. It started with an 8.5-inch-deep frame with quarter-inch thick rails. Into this foundation was dropped a 420-cubic-inch straight eight that boasted four valves per cylinder, twin overhead cams, and 265 horsepower -- a mind-boggling figure back then. Aluminum alloy was used extensively, holding the car's weight to around 5,200 pounds. To the imposing chassis was added the finest custom coachwork money could buy -- and a Duesenberg cost plenty. It cost $9,500 for the chassis alone in 1931, enough to buy 20 brand-new Model A Fords!

The Autocar, a British motoring magazine, described this royal Duesenberg as "colossal" back in 1936. After the car was fitted with the body, it was presented at the London Motor Show where it received great acclaim. Following the show, it was shipped to New York and driven to the Auburn factory in Auburn, Indiana. Once the car was thoroughly checked out by the ACD engineers, it was driven it to the West Coast where it was shipped to India.

The Maharajah Duesenberg from Inside.

Most British Empire and "Colonial" Duesenberg sales were handled through English sales agents, this one being sold by R.S.M. Automobiles, Limited, of London. It then went to J. Gurney Nutting & Company for its special body. The Maharajah's Duesy was the only one to receive J. Gurney Nutting coachwork. It was mounted on the final Duesenberg chassis, number 2,614 (it was not the last one to be bodied, however). The engine, J-585, was also apparently the fourth-to-the-last one built, and the last with a supercharger. The speedster sported a concealed top, built-in license plate holder, dual fuel tanks, and single-bar bumpers. More interesting was a rumble seat that was completely separate from the trunk; neat fold-down steps built into the sides of the body made access easier.

The Duesenberg car, after completion, was shipped from London to New York and driven back to Indianapolis by Duesenberg employees. It was delivered to the Maharaja Yeshwant Rao Holkar's Santa Ana, California mansion as there were fears of Japan invading India. After the tensions in the region had dropped, the Duesenberg was shipped from Los Angeles to Singapore and on to India.

This car made a spectacular sight in Indore. But this is where the story of this car abruptly ends. No much is known about this car in the later period or when was it sold. Some reports suggest that this car was sold to the Maharajah of Idar in 1950, who in turn sold it to another vintage car collector for just Rs. 3000! Later a Muslim broker took this car and sold it to film actor Sheik Mukhtiar who smuggled it to Pakistan when he immigrated. He then exchanged this fabulous car for a brand new Chevrolet impala and Ra 1,20,000. Later, the car returned to New York in 1956 and was advertised FOR SALE in the New York Times for $6,000. The car was taken to USA and was acquired by General and Mrs. William Lyon of Trabucco Oaks, California, and resided in the William Lyon Classic Automobile Collection.

Jay Leno, the American celebrity TV show host and the current owner of the Maharajah Duesenberg.

In 2005, Jay Leno, “Tonight Show” host, comedian and vintage car collector purchased the 1931 Duesenberg luxury roadster from a New York City garage. According to the report, Leno paid $180,000 for the car and then had it restored. Today this car stands proudly in the Jay leno collection. From being a proud possession of an Indian maharaja to being a prized possession of a “new age Hollywood Maharajah”, the car has completed a long journey indeed!

By Akshay Chavan.

Rani of Jhansi’s Descendants: The Tragic Tale of Damodar Rao, Rani’s Adopted Son

2009-09-01T23:14:00.009+05:30

“Khoob ladi mardani vah to Jhansiwali Rani thi”

With these words by Subhadra Kumari Chauhan, Rani Laxmibai of Jhansi has been immortalised in history and she lives on in popular imagination. Manikarnika Tambe, a daughter of priest in court of Peshwa Bajirao at Bithur married Raja Gangadhar Rao of Jhansi and became Rani Laxmibai of Jhansi. Raja died soon after and the British annexed state under the infamous “Doctrine of Lapse”. Aggrieved by this, Rani Laxmibai joined the rebels in 1857 and was martyred in the struggle and immortal in history. But what became of her son, the baby whom she tied to her back in the battlefield? What happened to her son? Did he survive or did he not? Was he captured by the British? Was he tortured?

A popular image of Rani Lakshmibai of Jhansi

There were only questions and more questions. Unfortunately, there are no answers in our Government textbooks or official “sarkari” histories. This is, until now, till I came across a Marathi book by veteran writer Y.N Kelkar called “Itihasachya Sahali” or “Voyages in History” published in 1959. In this book, I came across a fascinating article narrating the experiences of Damodar rao, Rani Lakshmibai’s adopted son based on his memoirs narrating his tragic childhood experiences. It gives a fascinating insight into the lives of 1857 rebels and travails that they went through. Some of the memories brought tears to my eyes. Unfortunately, my English translation of the same does not bring out the same emotions as in Marathi. But it does answers all the questions that you wanted to know as to what happened after to Rani of Jhansi’s unfortunate son. It is an extremely sad and poignant tale which I shall narrate in Damodar Rao’s own words. In his memoirs, Damodar Rao Newalkar, adopted son of Rani Laxmibai of Jhansi and heir to the Jhansi throne narrates –

“I was born on 15th November 1849 in Jhansi in a collateral branch of the ruling Newalkar dynasty. On my birth, the court astrologers looked at the stars and prophesised that I had a “Raj Yog” or destined to become a king. And how tragically true this prophesy turned out to be!

Shankargarh fort at Jhansi, where young Anand Rao was adopted by Rani Lakshmibai and named Damodar Rao.

After a young age of three, I was adopted by Maharaja Gangadhar Rao of Jhansi. An application was sent to the East India Company’s representative in Bundelkand to recognize my adoption, but my adoptive father died soon after before a confirmation could be received. After this, my adoptive mother, Rani Laxmibai of Jhansi sent a representation of Lord Dalhousie in Calcutta to recognize me as an heir to the throne but this appeal was rejected. The British East India Company declared that the kingdom of Jhansi would be annexed under the doctrine of lapse and that my mother, Rani Laxmibai would get an annual pension of Rs 5000. In addition Masaheb (Rani Laxmibai) would also inherit all the personal property of my father including the palaces and jewellery. Lord Dalhousie decided that I could inherit these personal assets of my late father but not the kingdom. In addition, there were 7 lakh rupees in the treasury in the name of my late father. When Masaheb requested for the same, she was informed that the British Govt would be hold this money in trust till I reached majority and then, it would be handed over to me.

In 1857, my fate changed for worse. My mother never forgave the British for the annexation of our kingdom and she raised a banner of revolt along with the entire the populace of Jhansi. Unfortunately, we lost Jhansi due to treachery and had to flee to Gwalior. In the battle in Gwalior, Masaheb became a martyr. My attendants would tell be that she carried me on her back on the battlefield. I was too young to remember this. After Masaheb’s death, I remained in Gwalior for the next 3 days. Of Masaheb’s confidants, only 60 had survived the battle. Nanekhan Risaldar, a Maratha named Ganpatrao , Raghunath singh and Ramchadrarao Deshmukh took me under their guardianship and with 22 horses and 60 camels, we broke away from the camp of Raosaheb, brother of Peshwa Nanasaheb of Bithur and decided to find our own way out. We fled along the inhospitable terrain, jungles and ravines and fled towards the direction of Chanderi in Bundelkhand. No village on the way was willing to take pity and help us due to the fear of reprisals by the British.

Since a refuge in any of the villages was virtually impossible, we took shelter in a dense forest by edge of the river. Due to lack of any camping equipment, we had to sleep under the open skies. During the scorching heart of the summer, we would have sleep inside the deep forest amidst the trees. Our skin would burn due to the heat. We had no food and hence had to survive on fruits and berries found in the forest. Fortunately, Mother Nature took pity on us and we never slept hungry in the forest. We were afraid of going to nearby villages for help as there were British soldiers roving everywhere hunting for the rebels. Only in extreme emergencies would our men venture out, with life in their hands and get required provisions from local villages. This went on till the end of summer.

As monsoon began, things went from bad to worse. All forest paths would be flooded making it impossible for us to move. Remembering those terrible days sends shiver down my spine. Fortunately god finally took pity on us. A local village headman informed us that as the British has set up a camp at Lalitpur, he could not help us directly but if we moved to a secret location in the forest as suggested by him, he would provide us with provisions over there. On advice of Naik Raghunath singh, we broke our camp and started living at different locations in small groups of 10 to avoid any suspicion. We reached an agreement with that local village headman that we would give him Rs.500 every month plus 9 horses and 4 camels and in return, he would supply us with required provisions and keep us informed about British movements. At this time, we were around 11 people.

Betwa river, also known as “Vetravati” on whose banks, young Damodar Rao and his followers took refuge in the deep forest.

As agreed, we went to live in a cave by a steep cliff. Below the cliff was the Vetravati river. There was a temple of Mahadev nearby too. River Vetravati ran with a great force and there was a large and lovely waterfall. Around us, there were several lakes and ponds. The sheer pristine beauty of the place made us forget some of our sorrows.

In this way, we spent as two whole years as wanderers and fugitives. During these years, I was unwell the whole time. In the month of Bhadrapad, my conditioned worsened. My retainers were worried if I would even survive the ordeal. They begged the village headman to send someone to treat me. Even the village headman was shocked to see my pitiable and delicate state. He soon got a local doctor or a “vaid” who happened to be his uncle to treat me in secrecy.

As I recovered from my illness, another problem arose. While fleeing Gwalior, we had around Rs. 60,000 with us which by now had been fully exhausted. Now, with no money to pay, the headman rudely asked us to leave and we had no choice but to comply. We gave the headman Rs.200 and asked for the return of our horses. That charlatan returned only 3 horses and informed us that others had died! We left as a group of 12 however, on our way further, we were joined by another batch of followers that had left earlier and soon became 24.

We soon reached the village of Shipri-Kolaras in the Gwalior state. The locals there recognized us as rebels and put us all under arrest. We were in local jail for 3 days. Then under and escort of 10 horsemen and 25 sepoys, we were sent to the Political Agent at Jhalrapatan. As our horses had been confiscated, we had to walk for days. My men could not bear to see my plight and carried me on their back by turns. Most of my mother’s men who had survived had taken asylum in Jhalrapatan. There was a Political agency nearby managed by a Poltical Agent named Mr. Flink. One of my mother’s risaldar named Nanhekhan was working at this political agency. He was a trusted aide of Mt Flink. He went to Mr Flink and said “ Late Ranisaheb of Jhansi had a son who is now just 9-10 year old. After she died in the battlefield, that little child had to live in the forest like an animal. His trusted followers have looked after him with care. What is the fault of this innocent child? What has he ever done against the British Raj? Please spare that child and entire Hindustan shall shower blessings on you”.

The spectacular Gagron Fort at Jhalawar, whose kind ruler, Raja Prithvi Singh gave great help to young Damodar Rao.

Mr Flink was a kind man. He sent a message to the Political Agent at Indore, Col Sir Richard Shakespeare, to which Colonel replied “If Rani of Jhansi’s son surrenders willingly, I shall see that his affairs are settled”. Mr Flink asked Nanhekhan to take me to Indore. On the way we met Raja Prithvisinh of Jhalrapatan. He had great respect for masaheb and he treated me very well promised that he would put in a good word for me with the resident at Ajmer. We were kept in prison near Jhalrapatan for around 3 months. We had no money till then and so I was forced to sell the two bracelets or “todas” of 32 tolas each which belonged to late Masaheb. There were the last remaining memories of her with me. And now they were lost. On 5th May 1860, we reached Indore cantonment. There I met the politicial agent, Sir Richard Shakespeare. I was placed under guardianship of a Kashmiri official called Munshi Dharmanarayan. I was allowed to keep only 7 followers and all others had to leave. I was allotted an annual pension of Rs. 10,000, which I had no option but to take as I was only a child then.”

This is where the memoir ends. Not much is known of what happened to Damodar Rao in his later life. What is known is that the British Govt refused to hand over to him the 7 lakh rupees which it held in ”trust” for him and had refused to hand it over to Rani Lakshmibai. Damodar Rao lived the rest of his days in penury begging the British govt to restore to him some of his rights without avail. He married and settled down in Indore. In 1904, he had a son named Lakshman Rao. The sad and tragic life of Damodar Rao ended on 28th May 1906. He was 58 years old. His descendants still live in Indore. They use the name “Jhansiwale” after the land of their forebears. Damodar Rao, son of brave Rani Lakshmibai of Jhansi lives on as a small footnote in history of India and in popular imagination as a little boy tied to a fearless heroine’s back.

By Akshay Chavan.

The Curse of the Mysore Royal family: a Rational Analysis

2009-08-24T23:14:00.021+05:30

Talakadu Maralaagali
Malangi Maduvaagali
Mysuru Dhoregalige Makkalagade hogali!

These prophetic and terrible words, uttered by a distressed woman in 1610 AD, will complete 400 years next year, in 2010. The “curse of the Wodeyars” also known as the “curse of Talakad” as well as “curse of Malangi” is said to have played havoc on the town of Talakad, village of Malangi and the lives of generations of Wodeyars. But does the curse really exist? There are many people who believe it does and there are many proofs of this. But living in 21st century, can we believe something which has no rational and scientific basis? Should we not use rationality and scientific mind to challenge long held assumptions based on a 400 year old tale.

Based on some interesting books and articles written by historians, archaeologists, geologists and genealogists, I have attempted to find the REAL truth behind the story of this curse. First we look at the story of the curse, its effects and loopholes in the story, followed by a detailed scientific and historic analysis, the findings of which shall surprise you.

Raja Wodeyar, the Wodeyar ruler of Mysore, who was supposed to have been cursed by Rani Alamelamma in 1610 AD.

The story of the curse:
Raja Wodeyar was the founder of the royal Wodeyar dynasty of Mysore. The Vijayanagara empire was in its full decline and Raja Wodeyar was one of its chieftains aiming and jostling for power. In those days, the Vijayanagara Viceroy named Tirumala held court at Srirangapatna and Raja Wodeyar was his vassal. Tirumala was getting increasingly wary his powerful feudatory. He hatched a cunning plan to invite all chieftains under his suzerainty for Hindu festival of Dusshera to Srirangapatna and put them to death. Unfortunately for Tirumala, Raja Wodeyar discovered this plot and attacked Srirangapatna and captured it overthrowing Tirumala and establishing his rule. Tirumala fled to a village of Malangi with his wife, Rani Alamelamma. This is where the story of the curse actually begins.

Raja Wodeyar wanted to take revenge against his defeated foe and hence ordered all the Tirumala’s property confiscated. Rani Alemelamma had brought with her all her jewellery which she would lend to the Sriranganathaswamy Temple at Srirangapatna. To reclaim these jewels, Raja Wodeyar sent his soldiers to Malangi. The soldier arrived at Rani Alamelamma’s residence on banks of Talakad. The Rani was taken by surprise. She put all the ornaments she could find in a chest and made a secret exit from the palace. When Raja Wodeyar’s soldiers barged in Rani’s apartments, they saw a dazzling apparition making its way towards the riverside. Sensing that Rani might escape, they pursued her. But by then the Rani had climbed a cliff that overlooked the torrents of Cauvery.

She cried to the troops in loud voice “Go tell your viceroy that in life in vanquished us but not in death. Honour is more important to us than life and he has tried to acquire it.” The with folded hands and closed eyes, she prayed to Lord Venkateshwara and said “O’Lord, if I have been ever sincere to you as a devotee and a faithful wife of my husband, grant me this dying wish that would be a curse for the arrogant Viceroy of Srirangapatna. –

Talakadu Maralaagali
Malangi Maduvaagali
Mysuru Dhoregalige Makkalagade hogali!

I curse Talakad to be submerged under creeping sands
May a cruel whirlpool be a scourge of Malangi
And the kings of Mysore suffer the pangs of Childlessness!

And then, Rani Alamelamma leapt to her death in the torrential waters of Cauvery. When Raja Wodeyar heard of the incident at Malangi, he was overcome by remorse. To repent, he had a bronze idol of Rani Alamelamma made which is worshiped by the Wodeyars on the 9th day of Dusshera every year.

Effects of the Curse:
The chilling effects of this curse can be seen in the following ways:

1. The historic town of Talakad was completely submerged by sand dunes and was abandoned. The sand covered historical temples can be seen to this day.
2. River Cauvery generates fierce whirlpools near the village of Malangi, which has partly been consumed by the river.
3. Every alternate generation of Wodeyars had problems with heirs including the current Maharaja of Mysore, Srikantadatta Wodeyar.

Archaeologists, geologists, genealogists, historians and rationalists all have a different explanations on this curse. While the first two parts of the curse can be explained by natural geological reasons, but how do you explain the lack of heirs among the Wodeyars even today, in 2009, almost 400 years after the family was cursed?

Loopholes in the story of the curse:
As rationalists, we need to investigate the story which has many loopholes. These unexplained answers and facts are as follows:

1. The jewellery of temples is always considered sacred. It is extremely uncommon for anyone to “lend” their jewellery to the temples on Tuesday and Thursdays.
2. Raja Wodeyar wanted the jewellery which belonged to the temples. If Rani Alamelamma was a very devout woman as the story suggests, she would not have refused to hand over the same.
3. Why did Rani Alamelamma curse the village of Malangi? What did the village where she found solace, do anything to her?
4. It is highly unlikely that anyone would curse the city of holy temples. However, people claim that as a result of her curse, the temple city of Talakad was submerged under the sand.
5. The third part of the curse was that Wodeyars would be childless; then why did the curse change its effect over time, so as to skip a generation?

A Rational Analysis of the Curse:
I have analyzed the three prophecies of the curse based on a variety of sources including Mr. Vikram Sampath’s “Splendours of Royal Mysore” as well as several articles in the CURRENT SCIENCE Magazine. The analysis is as follows:

1. Talakadu Maralaagali “I curse Talakad to be submerged under creeping sands”
Let us analyze the first part of the curse, about the historic town of Talakad to be submerged under creeping sands. Now why would a “devout” woman as Rani Alamelamma curse a holy city which had historic temples? What had Talakad ever done to her? Well, there is no answer available. There have been several researches carried out by Geologists to investigate the phenomenon of sand dunes. CURRENT SCIENCE Journal in its December 2007 features one such article.

Images of the historic temples in the town of Talakad covered by sand dunes, a phenomenon attributed to the "The Curse of Wodeyars".

Talakad is a historic site on the banks of river Kaveri. It has a continuous history of human habitation since 10,000 BC and emerged as a flourishing city during the Hoysala period (12th-13th century). This thriving city went into decline after the 16th century, which is attributed to the curse uttered in 1610 AD. However, historical records show that Talakad town went into decline only at the end of the 16th century. If it was cursed, why did it take almost 60-70 years to take into effect? A combination of historians, geologists and archaeologists claim to find an answer to this. During 1336, Madhava Manthri, a minister from the Vijayanagara regime, is said to have built an ‘anecut’ or dam across river Cauvery just above the Talakad area near Hemmige. Such a construction is likely to have dried up the river path, exposing the sand banks accumulated there for millions of years. Talakad receives strong winds from northwest and southwest, which while blowing on the river base, could move the sand particles towards Talakad. Studies have observed that these particles could move at a rate of about 7–10 ft/yr.

A diagram which explains the geological process of deposition of sand in Talakad (Source: CURRENT SCIENCE JOURNAL, Dec 2007

Thus, the sand which we see covering the town of Talakad is a consequence of movement of particles from the river path which was amplified by the sharp turn of the river. Gradually, over a period of a century, the town was slowly abandoned by its residents due to accumulation of sand and not as a result of some curse.

2. Malangi Maduvaagali “May a cruel whirlpool be a scourge of Malangi”
About the second part of the curse, Geologists have actively demonstrated that there is an active but a minor fault running along the path of the Cauvery River. Accordingly, owing to a major geological shift, the river Kaveri shifted its course as all rivers do. Plus, river Kaveri takes a sharp turn at several places including one at Talakad and Malangi. On one bank of the turn is Talakad and on other bank is Malangi. The bank of river which faces Malangi faces the rapidly flowing face of the river which cuts into it. This is the reason why Malangi is being eaten up by river Kaveri. Not as a result of any curse.

3. Mysuru Dhoregalige Makkalagade hogali! “And the kings of Mysore suffer the pangs of Childlessness!”
About the third and the most important part of the curse, the lack of heirs in the Mysore royal family. Most people including myself, believed in the curse only because of this third effect. I would ask “ Yes, the first two may be geological reasons, but how do you explain the every alternate generation of Wodeyars not having heirs.?” To me, this confirmed the existence of curse. That is, till now. Apparently, Rani Alamelamma cursed that Wodeyars shall not have any heirs, but did not say anything about skipping a generation! Did she have powers to change the curse in retrospect?

The answer is no. This part can be explained as part genetics and part coincidence. The funny part is that the very man who was cursed, Raja Wodeyar had several sons! While it is true that many Wodeyar rulers have had lack of heirs, they did have sons from their concubines. So what explains this?

A genealogy of the Mysore royal family (Source: CURRENT SCIENCE JOURNAL, Dec 2007)

In those days, genetic defects due to close intermarriages were not well known. Like most Indian rulers, Wodeyars married within their own “Urs” community. There were only around a dozen “well bred” inter married Urs families from which all the spouses of the Wodeyar family came from. This may have caused what is called “inbreeding depression”. Point to note is that out of the 19 rulers, only 10 rulers had lack of heirs. All adopted rulers had heirs but their second generation did not, caused by “enhanced inbreeding depression”. Thus, as well see, there is a strong medical reason which explains the lack of heirs of the Mysore family.

So what is this curse all about?
As analyzed above, the curse did not take effect immediately. The three syndromes of the curse were already visible during that time and historians believe that the curse was intelligently moulded by someone with a vested interest. But what could this vested interest be? It is interesting to see the timing of the first mention of this curse and similar other curses. While it was a part of local folklore, it makes appearance only in early 1830s and 1840s. What surprised me most was that very similar such curses of childlessness have emerged around the same time from other royal durbars. Suddenly every royal family like Gwalior, Jaipur, Porbander etc appears to be cursed! Why?

Lord Dalhousie, whose infamous “Doctrine of Lapse” forced royal families to concoct stories of curses.

A little investigation throws some light on this. In 1830s and 40s, Lord Dalhousie was the Governor General of India and the notorious “Doctrine of Lapse” was in existence. Mysore had already been taken under British rule for maladministration and there was a real possibility that state would be annexed of the ruler died without heir. I suspect this may have forced the Mysore durbar to concoct the story of the curse, adding what is called in India “Mirch Masala” (spicing it up). This theory is highly plausible many other durbars did the same. The point was to tell the British “Oh! We do want to have heirs, but what can we do? We are cursed”.

Conclusion:
Based on our analysis, there are three conclusions, first is that due to the construction of a check dam, the sand accumulated on banks of Cauvery for millions of years go exposed. The strong winds carried it towards the town of Talakad which eventually forced then inhabitants to abandon it over a course of a century. Second, ecological degradation as well as shifting of the course of the river forced a part of Malangi to be submerged under water. And third, intermarriages between the closely knit Urs community caused “inbreeding depression” resulting in lack of heirs. And then, to prevent the state from being taken over by the British, the Mysore durbar concocted the story of this curse. Despite these very rational reasons, today, almost 400 years after the so called curse was made, most people will still believe that this curse exists. To conclude, I want to ask, is this blind faith in religion and superstition, the real “curse” which affects Indians?

By Akshay Chavan.