Sunday, September 5, 2010

Samudra Mahal at Worli, Mumbai: A Lost Palace by the Sea

This is the story of one of the most opulent private residence built in Mumbai. Today, Mukesh Ambani’s Xanadu called “Antilla” towers over the city of Mumbai. It undoubtedly holds the title of being the most lavish Mumbai residence ever built. However, Antilla did have predecessors who shared the title of the most opulent homes in Mumbai. As per my extensive research on this topic, the homes which would qualify as most opulent Mumbai residences would be Petit Hall of Sir Dinshaw Petits, Jay Mahal palace of Gaekwads of Baroda and Samudra Mahal palace of the Scindias of Gwalior. Sadly,due to extremely high cost of real estate and maintenance costs involved, all three of them have been demolished and redeveloped into huge apartment blocks.

The Samudra Mahal palace of the Scindias of Gwalior, one of the most opulent royal residences ever built in Bombay / Mumbai. (© Shivang Vijay Singh of Dumraon)

Recent discovery of some rare photos of Samudra Mahal by Shivang Vijay Singh of Dumraon, eldest great grandson of Rajmata Vijayaraje Scindia has rekindled interest in the story of Samudra Mahal. It is part of Mumbai/Bombay that shall be forever be associated with a mighty kingdom in Central India, that of the Scindias of Gwalior. But why did the Scindias build a palace in Bombay?

In the late 1800s and early 1900s , Indian princes were encouraged to travel outside their states. Bombay (as Mumbai was called then) was a centre of commerce and trade. It was also famous for its racing season. As a result, large number of princes started spending extensive periods of time here. Maharaja Madhavrao Scindia was a financial genius of his time. He invested the financial surplus of the Gwalior state into various industries in Bomaby which gave handsome returns, making Gwalior one of the richest of Gwalior states. His closest advisor was Sir Framroze Eduljee Dinshaw , the financial king of Bombay. Sir FE Dinshaw was extremely busy man and hence could not visit Gwalior to discuss the financial affairs; hence, Maharaja Madhavrao Scindia felt that it would be better to have a suitable residence in Mumbai where he could stay for his extensive visits.

A view of the front part of the palace which faced the Haji Ali dargah. The palace was located on a small hillock with sea on three sides, making it a most desirable property.(© Shivang Vijay Singh of Dumraon)

He purchased 20 acres of land at Worli point from Aga Khan. It was a spectacular location, with a small hillock surrounded by sea on three sides. It extended from Markandeshwar temple (a small Shiv temple) on one end and Haji Ali dargah on the other end. Maharaja commissioned the Gwalior State architect John Ritchie to build a large palace for him. John Ritchie built a spectacular palace on the hillock on the modernist style. The huge and opulent palace was built using finest teakwood, Carrara marble and Bohemian chandeliers. It was surrounded by a large park with impeccably manicured lawns, fountains and superbly cut flower beds. The rest of the estate included club house with swimming pool, tennis courts and gymnasium, staff quarters and extensive stables.

                                   

A side view of the Samudra Mahal. (© Shivang Vijay Singh of Dumraon)

Maharaja Madhavrao Scindia must have truly loved Samudra Mahal as he made a WILL in 1925, in which he clearly stated that Samudra Mahal must never be sold and be always be used for the family. Madhav maharaj died soon after. His son, Maharaja Jiwajirao Scindia continued the love affair of the Scindias with Samudra Mahal. Jiwajirao Scindia was one of the biggest and most successful owners of race horses in India. The racing season in Bombay began in November and extended till March. Jiwajirao would spend the season in Bombay at the Samudra Mahal which was virtually across the road from the race course to see his horses flying the Scindia colors win race after race.


                                

Main gate of the Samudra Mahal, decorated for the wedding of princess Padmavati raje Scindia to Maharaja of Tripura. (© Shivang Vijay Singh of Dumraon)

During this time, a part of the Gwalior court would shift to Samudra Mahal. Maharaja Jiwajirao would fly down to Bombay in his personal aircraft but a vast army of staff would be dispatched to Bombay by road and rail. . His personal aides would travel with him but senior officers would arrive separately. Almost 50 cars would be sent down from Gwalior containing provisions sufficient for four months. The staff that moved from Gwalior to Bombay included typists, clerks, cooks, waiters, physicians, compounders, dressing boys, drivers and even dog boys to attend maharaja’s dogs. These people were in addition to the permanent based staff at Samudra Mahal. Thus, for few months, this part of Worli in Bombay would turn into mini-Gwalior with all paraphernalia of a grand princely court.

                                    

Maharaja Jiwajirao Scindia and members of the Gwalior court at the lavish wedding banquet of Princess Padmaraje Scindia at Samudra Mahal. (© Shivang Vijay Singh of Dumraon)

Samudra Mahal played an intrinsic part in the lives of the Scindias. Jiwajirao and Vijayaraje spent their honeymoon in Bombay. Rajmata Vijayaraje Scindia writes as to how she entered her suite in Samudra Mahal to find every surface displaying spectacular jewels. Apparently, it was her birthday and Jiwajirao had ordered all Bombay jewellers to display their wares so that she could select whatever she wanted. When Vijayaraje Scindia was pregnant with Madhavrao Scindia (the politician), she stayed here and gave birth to the heir to the Scindia throne.

                                                          
Karamveer Bhaurao Patil, renowned social reformer , who was given 1500 acres of land and two palaces by Jiwajirao Scindia for promotion of education in rural Maharashtra.


Jiwajirao Scindia as a big patron of racing, gave the Samudra Mahal stables on lease to the Amateur riders club to promote horse riding in Bombay. Thus, Amatuer riding club had its foundation in this very palace. Another important event was when noted social reformer Karamveer Bahurao Patil, visited Jiwajirao Scindia at the Samudra Mahal and asked for his help with his Rayat Shikshan Sansthan, an organization he had founded to spread literacy to India’s villages. Jiwajirao promptly donated 1500 acres of land and two of his ancestral palaces at Shrigonda and Jamgaon in Ahmednagar district. This original donation by the Scindias still forms a substantial part of the corpus of the trust which has done pioneering work in Maharashtra’s villages.


23 June, 1950 - News article from American newspapers about people barging into the Samudra Mahal (Gwalior palace). It generated huge publicity and was covered by all major national and international newspapers.

After independence, and the abolition of princely states, dark clouds descended on Samudra Mahal. The new socialist govt looked down upon lavish royal residences. In 1952, there was a big debate in the Bombay legislative assembly about confiscating Samudra Mahal and converting it into housing colony for lower income groups. Madhu Dandavate, Indian socialist leader of 50s and 60s decided to target the Samudra mahal. He got a group of homeless people and barged into the Samudra Mahal where they squatted in the main reception hall. The squatters were later evicted but this generated huge publicity in national and international papers.

The dark clouds which were hovering over Samudra Mahal were affecting Scindia family as well. Jiwajirao’s health was deteriorating day by day. The marriage of his eldest daughter Padmavatiraje Scindia to the Maharaja of Tripura was the last grand occasion to take place in Samudra Mahal. Invitation was sent to 10,000 people and the festivities were extremely lavish. The wedding even got a mention in TIME magazine. Sadly, Jiwajirao Scindia died soon after at Samudra Mahal with his wife and young son looking over him. The palace would never be the same again.


Samudra Mahal was demolished in 1960s. Today large no of buildings stand in its place. This is the exact location of the Samudra Mahal. The tallest building is still called Samudra Mahal after the original palace.

The Scindias were faced with a huge estate duty which had to be paid in cash. Scindias were asset rich but cash poor. So under bad advice, Rajmata Vijayaraje Scindia decided to put the Samudra Mahal for sale. A group of buyers – Baburao Dhanwatey of Nagpur, Devchand Shah of Nipani and Manoharbhai Patel of Jabalpur purchased a large part of the state from the Scindias. The story of the sale of hazy and murky but what comes out is that Scindias ended with little or no money from the sale. The buyers demolished the palace, sold of the marble and crystal for pittance and but a large commercial complex called Shiv Sagar Estate. The small part of the palace clubhouse still with the Scindias was later developed into a lavish apartment tower where they maintain a lavish apartment.



A satellite image of the Samudra Mahal palace estate (marked in red) located at Haji Ali in Mumbai. The palace, lawns, fountains, flowerbeds now replaced by ugly high rise buildings. The Haji Ali Dargah and the Mahalakshmi Race Course can be clearly viewed too.

Today, a large group of buildings including Samudra Mahal apartments, Eden hall, Madhuli apartments, Ceejay house and Poonam chambers stand on the once fabled Samudra mahal estate, while memories of one of the most opulent residences in Bombay ever built remain only in photographs and the name – Samudra Mahal – “Palace by the Sea”.

By Akshay Chavan

22 comments:

  1. Great Job Akshay, I took 15 minutes to read this post.
    Raja Madhukar Mysore

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  2. great job sir...............i really feel bad the way things happend.....so sad.

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  3. A poignant story....makes for a compelling read. Well done Akshay....the last story-teller of the Indian Royals !

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  4. I loved your passion..

    Yashpal Singh Jadon

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  5. Well written article Akshay, as always!
    SHYAM

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  6. your articles often leave one in between remorse & appreciation of current fortune.If bricks & stones could talk, they would share many a story for you to tell

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  7. Hi Mr Chavan, lovely piece abt Samudra Mahal. As a teenager I wandered the lanes of Mumbai( old parts) and had seen this building - Samudra Mahal, and wondered abt its origin. More so becos most hirises around there had names drawn either from western mythology or took from fancy places in England. And now I am glad 'that' mystery abt this building's name has been solved. BTW am wondering if u have published books on Scindhias or Gaekwars. Mighty interested in the history of former as surname on my mother's side is Shinde and also that Scindhias hail from Satara.

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  8. great stuff Akshay,
    thanks for the insights and more power to you.

    cheers
    satish

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  9. Very nice & informative article. I am sitting opposite Shivsagar Estate right now. I had read that Samudra Mahal was owned by the Gwalior royal family, but this article has given good info

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  10. So interesting!
    but so sad...would love to see it, are there pictures of the inside?

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  11. Amazing collection akshay , i am continuously reading your blogs and impressed by your passion , I am going to paste this article on my website www.gwaliorplus.com with your link on it

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  12. FROM : DILIP NANAVATI,
    email: nanavatidilip@gmail.com

    nicw to know the historical places and monument,which was not known to me

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  13. this was very beautiful....really impressed by the style and passion we share.

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  14. just linked this article on my facebook account. it’s a very interesting article for all.

    Used Cars in Mumbai

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  15. some interesting info......my dad along with Mr kulkarni was an engineer for samudra mahals construction and i still have a photo of rajmataji and the late HRH MadhavRao Scindia with me...........

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  16. well done sir and thanks for such a great information. i live in worli... i m frm scindia-shinde clan (but nt frm mahadji's clan)
    my native place is in nashik.
    -- pritesh shinde-scindia ( www.facebook.com/shivchartra )

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  17. Good piece of research sir, but with a sad ending indeed

    A. Q. Rana

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